A square tower stands guard facing the sea, alone on the shore, as in the days when lookouts scanned the horizon for Barbary sails. Pozzallo, at the southeastern tip of Sicily, looks more toward Africa than Europe: Malta can be reached from here by ferry in under two hours, which explains the comings and goings of backpackers around the terminal. For cruise passengers, this small fishing port plays a double role: a peaceful seaside stop and a gateway to the Baroque towns of the Val di Noto.

A pier in front of the town

Ships dock at the passenger pier, facing the terminal, within walking distance of the centre. No shuttle is needed to reach the first streets: the seafront promenade begins practically at the foot of the gangway. This compact layout leaves you the choice between a quiet day on the spot and an excursion inland.

The Cabrera Tower and the seafront

The town's symbol, the Cabrera Tower was built in the 15th century by the counts of the same name to protect the loading of wheat and repel raids from the sea. Restored, it can be approached by a wooden footbridge that crosses over it on the beach side. From there, the Lungomare Pietre Nere unrolls its palm-lined promenade, popular with families in the late afternoon. The sandy beaches along it fly the Blue Flag, a guarantee of clean water and well-kept facilities.

The heart of the town

A few streets from the shore, Piazza della Rimembranza brings together cafés, the Giorgio La Pira town hall from 1923 and the generous shade of a large ficus. Here you take the pulse of everyday small-town Sicily: ice cream vendors, old gentlemen deep in conversation and card games on the terraces. Try lemon or almond granita here, served with a brioche, the local way.

Modica, Baroque and chocolate

Eighteen kilometres inland, Modica tiers its Baroque palaces and churches on the sides of a ravine. Rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake, like all the UNESCO-listed towns of the Val di Noto, it retains another distinctive feature: its chocolate, cold-worked according to a recipe inherited from the Aztecs via Spain, grainy and flavoured with cinnamon or citrus. The chocolate shops in the centre offer tastings and demonstrations. Do not miss the Cathedral of San Giorgio, perched at the top of a monumental staircase: its façade seems to float above the rooftops.

Ragusa Ibla, the star excursion

About thirty kilometres away, Ragusa spreads its old quarter, Ibla, over a rocky spur: domes, staircases, carved balconies and flower-filled little squares make it one of the most complete Baroque ensembles in Sicily. At the end of the quarter, the Giardino Ibleo lines up its palm trees and chapels above the valley. Allow about forty minutes by road; excursions often combine Modica and Ragusa, for a very full day. Television fans will recognize the settings of Inspector Montalbano, filmed in the region.

Practical pointers

At the end of the day

Whether the port call was spent between granita and stone towers or among the stone scrolls of Sicilian Baroque, the return on board follows the pace of the promenade. The stone sentinel then resumes its post, and you catch yourself envying a little those who will still see it tomorrow morning.