Art and Antique Markets

Bringing an object home is what separates this trip from every other: you return not with photographs but with something that will live in your house. Provided you know how bargaining works where you are, and what you may legally take out — the second part being the one almost nobody checks.

Saint-Ouen — the largest antiques market in the world

These are not flea stalls, this is a town. Several distinct markets follow one another, each with its speciality: 20th-century furniture, African and Oceanic art, antique jewellery, posters. Marché Vernaison is the oldest and the most disorienting, Marché Paul Bert Serpette the one decorators comb through.

Saturday belongs to the trade, Sunday to visitors, Monday to bargains — many stands open and the crowds are gone.

Portobello Road — antiques the English way

The real antiques market runs on Saturday, and only Saturday, in the southern stretch of the road. The rest of the week it is mostly shops and souvenir stalls. That confusion ruins a lot of visits.

The British speciality remains silverware, antique scientific instruments and porcelain. Dealers are well documented and have little patience for vagueness.

The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul — and the warning that comes with it

Sixty covered streets, thousands of shops, and five centuries of trading. Carpets, copper, Iznik ceramics and jewellery are the genuine specialities.

Here is the point few articles mention, and it matters more than any bargaining tip. Turkish antiquities and cultural artifacts considered of historical value or of national importance cannot be exported. That is the Government of Canada’s own wording in its travel advice. If an item may lawfully leave, you need a sales receipt and an official museum export certificate issued by Turkish customs.

In other words, the object sold to you as "genuinely old" is exactly the one that can cause serious trouble at the airport. The prudent rule: seek advice from Turkish authorities before departure, insist on the invoice, and distrust any seller who promises it will pass without paperwork.

How to bargain, culture by culture

Haggling is not universal, and applying it where it is not done is as clumsy as ignoring it where it is expected.

In France, you negotiate, but discreetly and over a single step. Asking for the seller’s best price works better than naming a figure.

In the United Kingdom, margins are thin and negotiation happens on the lot: two pieces from the same dealer opens the conversation.

In Turkey and Morocco, bargaining is part of the exchange and taken as seriously as a game: it is long, it involves tea, and walking away is a legitimate step rather than an insult.

One rule holds everywhere: never bargain for something you do not intend to buy. The Moroccan souks are covered in our Morocco guide from Quebec.

What to ask for before paying

An itemised invoice with the description, estimated age, material and price. It serves customs, insurance and any future resale. Ask as well how the piece will be packed and whether it can be shipped — many serious dealers arrange transport, which settles the fragile-baggage problem.

When should you go?

The major European fairs cluster in spring and autumn, and outdoor markets are miserable in deep winter and high summer alike. Above all check the day: most of these markets genuinely exist only one or two days a week.

Organising the trip from Quebec

Two things are worth settling before departure: how purchases will travel home, and the export rules of the country you are visiting. An adviser can also build an itinerary that lands on the right day of the week, which is the most common trap of this kind of trip.

Voyages AquaTerra holds a Quebec travel agency licence. Our clients are covered by the Compensation Fund for Customers of Travel Agents, under the conditions set out in the regulation. Call an adviser at 1-866-628-6241.

Frequently Asked Questions

Turkish antiquities and cultural artifacts considered of historical value or of national importance cannot be exported. If an item may lawfully leave, you need a sales receipt and an official museum export certificate issued by Turkish customs.
Saturday, and only Saturday, in the southern stretch of the road. The rest of the week it is mostly shops and souvenir stalls.
Saturday for the trade, Sunday for visitors, Monday for bargains — many stands open and the crowds are gone.
In France, discreetly and over a single step. In the United Kingdom, on the lot rather than the piece. In Turkey and Morocco, at length and seriously, knowing that walking away is a legitimate step.
An itemised invoice with the description, estimated age, material and price. It serves customs, insurance and resale. Ask as well whether the dealer can ship the piece.