A strip of pale sand closes off the southern tip of Eleuthera, a long, thin island stretching nearly 180 kilometres through the Out Islands of the Bahamas. It is there, away from any village, that Princess Cruises created its private port of call in 1992: Princess Cays. The ship drops anchor offshore and tenders shuttle back and forth to a small landing; during the crossing, the water already takes on the milky hue that heralds the shallows. The day ahead belongs entirely to the sea. Carnival, a sister line in the same group, also brings its passengers here on some itineraries; yet the place remains one of the least crowded of the Bahamas' many private islands.

A shoreline developed without being spoiled

The site covers about fifteen hectares along the ocean, with more than two kilometres of shoreline. Lounge chairs line up beneath the coconut palms, private cabanas can be rented for the day by those seeking shade and calm, and an observation tower, rising above the palm-thatched roofs, takes in the bay and the anchorage. The whole remains deliberately simple: no flashy water park here, but rather an organized beach where everyone finds their own rhythm between swimming, napping and a barbecue lunch prepared on site by the ship's teams in the island's permanent kitchens. Bars scattered along the shore serve cold drinks and cocktails, charged to your cabin card as on board.

The sea in all its forms

The water sports kiosk rents kayaks, pedal boats, small sailboats and snorkelling gear. The seabed, sandy near the shore, gives way to coral heads where parrotfish and sergeant majors swim; a glass-bottom boat tour lets you observe this little world without getting wet. Swimmers have supervised areas, and the swell generally remains gentle on this side of the island, sheltered from the prevailing winds. Families enjoy Pelican's Perch, a supervised play area with a wooden galleon set in the sand, while teenagers battle it out on the volleyball court. Lifeguards keep watch from their tall chairs throughout the day.

Leaving the enclave to meet Eleuthera

Princess Cays is not an artificial island: Eleuthera continues beyond the fence, and some excursions take advantage of it. A tour of a few hours reaches Rock Sound and Tarpum Bay, two villages where stone churches stand alongside wooden houses faded by salt, with a Bahamian meal and junkanoo music on the program. It is a chance to put a face on this discreet farming island, whose pineapple farms long fed the archipelago. Those who stay on site will find woven baskets, carvings and fabrics at the craft market, sold by artisans from the surrounding area. Hair braiders and massage therapists set up near the shore round out this small island trade, at posted prices.

Tips for the day

• Tenders leave early and without reservations: aim for early morning to get the best spots in the shade.
• Book a cabana or bungalow before the cruise; inventory goes quickly.
• Bring U.S. cash for the craft market, which is separate from the ship's counters.
• The port call lasts seven to eight hours on average: enough time to combine an excursion and a swim.
• Water shoes are useful near the coral areas.

In the late afternoon, when the tenders bring back the last passengers, the low light skims the shore and staff fold up the umbrellas in a newfound calm. Travellers are left with the image of a day without a schedule, set to the rhythm of trips between the warm water and the shade of the coconut palms — and perhaps the desire, next time, to venture farther into Eleuthera, of which this sandy point is only the first page.