The sand in Cabo Frio has a peculiarity that surprises visitors from their very first steps: snow-white and fine as powder, it squeaks underfoot and stays cool even in full sun. This pure quartz has built the reputation of this town in the Lakes Region, east of Rio de Janeiro, where the ocean takes on turquoise shades you wouldn't expect at this latitude. This stop blends beach lounging, colonial history, and dune landscapes, all on a human scale.

Praia do Forte

The town's large urban beach unfurls its pale ribbon of sand for more than seven kilometres, facing bright, clear water — the name "frio" (cold) actually comes from the upwellings of cool water that give the sea its clarity. Modern seaside kiosks serve fruit juices, grilled fish, and ice-cold coconut water; street vendors offer hats and sarongs throughout the afternoon. Swimming here is pleasant, with just enough waves for fun without a fight.

Fort São Mateus

At the eastern end of the beach, on a rocky point battered by sea spray, the walls of Fort São Mateus have stood watch since the early seventeenth century. Built to protect the brazilwood trade from privateers, this small structure of stone and lime still has its cannons trained on the open sea. The visit is brief, but the spot is worth it mainly for its viewpoint: the long curve of the beach on one side, and the entrance to the Itajuru Channel, with its passing sailboats and fishing skiffs, on the other.

Passagem, the Old Quarter

Heading back along the shore toward the interior, you reach the Passagem neighbourhood, the town's old core. Cobbled lanes, low white houses trimmed in bright colours, bougainvillea spilling over low walls: the neighbourhood has kept the look of the colonial town Cabo Frio once was, back when salt and fish were its fortune. Waterside restaurants serve the day's catch facing the boats; it's the perfect spot for a quiet dinner away from the beach-town bustle. Boats also offer trips up the channel to the Araruama Lagoon, one of the largest saltwater lagoons in the world, which explains the region's long tradition of salt production.

Beachwear Shops and Souvenirs

Cabo Frio has built a national reputation in one very specific field: swimwear. A whole street, known as Bikini Street, lines up dozens of affordable beachwear shops, from classic styles to the boldest designs. Even without any intention of buying, the stroll is entertaining — and suitcases rarely leave empty.

Toward Arraial do Cabo

Excursions offered during the stop often head about twenty minutes south, to this fishing village surrounded by spectacular coves — Prainhas do Pontal, with its white dunes — nicknamed the "Brazilian Caribbean" for the clarity of its waters. Boat trips there sometimes cross paths with turtles and allow for swimming in coves accessible only by sea. A great way to round out the day if the swimming in town isn't enough.

A Last Look at the Channel

Later in the day, boats return along the Itajuru Channel in honey-coloured light, greeted by fishermen mending their nets on the docks of Passagem. Cabo Frio has neither Rio's grandeur nor the chic of neighbouring Búzios; it offers something else, an unpretentious seaside gentleness, where Brazil is lived with your feet in the white sand. It's often this kind of unassuming stop that leaves the clearest memories.