Long before the tenders touch the wharf, every passenger is already on deck. Percé Rock rises before the cove, a wall of golden limestone nearly 90 metres high, pierced by its famous arch through which the sea flows with every tide. Ships anchor offshore, for lack of facilities for large vessels, and this arrival by sea remains the finest introduction possible: it is exactly how fishermen, painters and poets have first seen Percé for four centuries.

The village at the foot of the giant

Ashore, everything fits in a pocket-sized area. The main street follows the curve of the cove, lined with artisan shops, galleries and cafés serving fresh cod and beer brewed in the Gaspé. The terraces all face the same direction, as if drawn by the monolith. The place has lived from fishing since the 18th century, and a few buildings from that merchant era survive near the water, converted into exhibition halls that tell of the days of the cod fishermen and the Jersey companies. Take the time to walk to the Mont Joli lookout, at the end of the village: at low tide, a gravel bar even lets you approach the foot of the rock, under the watchful eye of the cormorants nesting in the cliff.

The island of 100,000 birds

From the wharf, excursion boats regularly set out to circle the rock before heading for Bonaventure Island, protected by a Quebec national park. The crossing brings its share of encounters: grey seals sprawled on the reefs, razorbills skimming the water. Then comes the visual and acoustic shock of the northern gannet colony, the largest in North America and the most accessible in the world. More than 100,000 white birds with black-tipped wings cover the ledges of the cliff. Those who land on the island can follow a trail to the heart of the colony, just a few metres from the nests, before catching a boat back to the mainland. Bring binoculars: puffins, murres and whales also frequent these waters, depending on the season.

Walking above the void

Percé also holds the title of UNESCO Global Geopark, in recognition of its remarkable geology. Above the village, a glass platform suspended on the mountainside overlooks the entire bay: the rock, the island, the colourful rooftops and the horizon of the gulf unfold in a single sweep. Marked trails lead there from below, through a cool forest where you hear the birds long before you see them. The panorama amply rewards the effort, especially in late morning when the light strikes the limestone wall head-on, and benches along the route invite you to take your time.

Planning your time ashore

On the way back, leaning on the rail, you watch the rock grow smaller without ever really disappearing: it lingers in your mind long after you have left the bay. Percé is one of those places that existed in our imagination before we ever saw them and that, rarely, turn out to be even greater than the image we had of them. The Gaspé has that gift.