Austral Islands French Polynesia
French Polynesia

5 Cruises availables At departure or passage at this port

Ponant (5 Cruises)

Between August and October, you can sometimes hear the whales before the ship even drops anchor: humpback whales come to calve in the calm waters off Rurutu, their blows punctuating the approach like a welcome signal. The Austral Islands, French Polynesia's southernmost archipelago, remain off the beaten track; only a handful of ships, including mixed cargo vessels, venture 600 kilometres south of Tahiti to reach them. Those who make the trip experience a Polynesia untouched by mass tourism. Since not every island has a proper dock, landings are often made by barge or whaleboat, while crews unload flour, cement and mail; the port call doubles as a supply run, and that whole operation is part of the show.

Rurutu, the Island of Cliffs

Unlike its neighbours, Rurutu is a former uplifted atoll: its limestone cliffs, riddled with caves, ring a volcanic interior covered in jungle. Locals are happy to guide visitors into caverns full of striking rock formations that once served as shelters and burial sites. The island is also well known throughout Polynesia for its weaving crafts: hats, baskets and pandanus mats keep the hands of local weavers busy, often working together in groups, amid laughter and song. On Sundays, the whitewashed churches ring with himene, the powerful polyphonic singing this archipelago cultivates with pride.

Raivavae and Its Lagoon

Further southeast, Raivavae is considered by many sailors to be one of the most beautiful islands in the Pacific: a turquoise lagoon dotted with 28 motu rings the green mountain at its centre, in a shape reminiscent of Bora Bora, minus the hotels. Visitors can see a stone tiki with an enigmatic smile, coral marae platforms still standing, and canoes built and stitched together in the traditional way. Swimming off the main motu, in warm water over white sand, ranks among the most memorable pauses on any Austral Islands itinerary.

Tubuai and the Memory of the Bounty

Tubuai, the archipelago's main town, hides a famous episode among its taro fields: the mutineers of the Bounty tried to settle here in 1789 and built Fort George, whose site facing the lagoon still remains today. The island, flat and fertile, is easily explored by bike, past vegetable gardens, singing churches and empty beaches. Whales also pass through its channels in season.

Rimatara and the Quietest Islands

The tiny island of Rimatara is home to the Kuhl's lorikeet, an extremely rare red-and-green parrot spotted in the coconut groves. As for Rapa, the southernmost and most isolated island, with no airport, it receives only a few ships a year; when one does arrive, residents welcome every passenger almost like a personal guest. Along its ridges stand the remains of ancient fortified villages, evidence of an island society that once fought over its valleys; their silhouettes above the bays rank among the most striking sights in the South Pacific.

Austral Islands Port Calls at a Glance

IslandSignature experience
RurutuLimestone caves, weaving crafts, whales in season
RaivavaeLagoon with 28 motu, the smiling tiki
TubuaiFort George and cycling past the farmland
RimataraKuhl's lorikeet and flower-filled villages
RapaExtreme isolation, an unforgettable welcome

The climate here, noticeably cooler than in Tahiti, also gives the Austral Islands the feel of one great garden: taro, coffee, lychees and flowers grow at eye level, in air that smells more of damp earth than of sunscreen. That may be the image that lingers longest: singing, garden islands, where the sea teems with life and no one is in a hurry to sell you anything. Heading back north, it's hard not to hope that nothing here changes too quickly.

Frequently Asked Questions

About 600 kilometres south of Tahiti. They form the southernmost archipelago of French Polynesia, well off the standard circuits: only a handful of ships, including mixed cargo vessels, make the trip.
Often by barge or whaleboat, since not every island has a suitable quay. Landing depends on the swell and can be cancelled. Meanwhile crews unload flour, cement and mail: the call doubles as a resupply run, and that ballet is part of the show.
Yes, between August and October. Humpback whales come to calve in the calm waters off Rurutu, and you sometimes hear them blow before the anchor is even down. The passes at Tubuai receive them in season too. These are wild animals: no sighting is guaranteed.
It is a raised atoll. Limestone cliffs riddled with caves ring a volcanic interior covered in jungle, a landform found nowhere else in Polynesia. Islanders readily guide visitors into caverns with spectacular formations that once served as shelters and burial places.
Weaving. The island is known throughout Polynesia for its pandanus craft: hats, baskets and mats. The weavers often work in groups, amid laughter and singing, and are happy to be watched at work.
An island many sailors rate among the most beautiful in the Pacific: a turquoise lagoon scattered with 28 motu rings a green mountain, in a geometry that recalls Bora Bora without the hotels. It holds a stone tiki with an enigmatic smile, coral marae and canoes sewn in the traditional way.
The Bounty mutineers tried to settle here in 1789 and built Fort George, whose site still faces the lagoon. Tubuai is the administrative centre of the archipelago, flat and fertile, and is best explored by bicycle between market gardens, singing churches and empty beaches.
Powerful polyphonic singing in the whitewashed churches, especially on Sundays. The archipelago takes great pride in it, and it is often the strongest memory passengers carry away. Attending a service is possible, with the dress and discretion the setting calls for.
No, it is distinctly cooler. That gives the archipelago the feel of a great garden: taro, coffee, lychees and flowers grow shoulder-high, in air that smells of wet earth rather than sunscreen. Pack a light sweater for evenings, even in Polynesia.
The CFP franc, in cash. There is virtually no tourist commerce: nobody is in a hurry to sell you anything, ATMs are scarce and cards are accepted almost nowhere. This is Polynesia before tourism, and that is precisely the point of coming.