Everything here converges on a single street. Quinta Avenida stretches its pedestrian ribbon for several kilometres, parallel to the shore, packing in terraces, shops and street musicians from morning until late at night. The port call itself begins farther south: ships dock at the Calica-Punta Venado pier, about ten kilometres away, or anchor offshore to bring their passengers ashore by tender near the centre. Either way, the Riviera Maya opens up all at once, with its cenotes, its ruins and its pale sand.

From Calica to the heart of town

From the pier, taxis and shuttles cover the trip in about fifteen minutes through the low coastal vegetation. Those arriving by tender touch land two streets from the action. The landmark is simple: the Cozumel ferry terminal marks the town's ground zero, where travellers laden with suitcases cross paths with palm-hat vendors and taxis honking half-heartedly.

Quinta Avenida

"Fifth Avenue" unfolds like a continuous show: workshops selling textiles from Chiapas, counters of vanilla and dried chilies, cafés roasting beans from Soconusco and galleries of multicoloured alebrijes. The farther you head north from the ferry terminal, the more international brands give way to neighbourhood spots where coffee costs half as much. Bargaining is part of the game, always with a smile, and the best deals are struck at the end of the day.

Parque Fundadores and the voladores

Facing the sea, Founders Park gathers the whole town beneath the bronze arch of the Portal Maya, which frames the horizon like a door open onto the Caribbean. Several times a day, the voladores of Papantla launch themselves from the top of their pole and spiral down, hanging by their feet, to the sound of a flute — a ritual recognized as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The free show is worth timing your stroll around.

The sand and the comings and goings of Cozumel

The central beach lives to the rhythm of the ferries speeding toward the island across the way every hour. You can swim between departures, or head north where the shore widens and grows quieter. Beach clubs rent lounge chairs and umbrellas; the turquoise water stays warm in every season, and volleyball players hold the court until dusk.

The cenotes of the hinterland

A few kilometres into the forest, the limestone opens onto wells of translucent fresh water. Some can be explored by swimming, others by floating slowly among the roots; the largest look like underground cathedrals studded with stalactites, where light falls in beams from openings in the vault. It is the region's signature excursion, refreshing in every sense, and doable in half a day.

Tulum and Xcaret, the big outings

An hour's drive south leads to the ruins of Tulum, the only Maya city standing by the sea, perched on its cliff above a cove where swimmers look tiny. Closer by, Xcaret park combines an underground river, regional wildlife and shows devoted to Mexican traditions. Each of these outings fills a good part of the port call: choose according to your appetite for history or activities.

Practical pointers

• Calica pier about fifteen minutes from the centre; some itineraries instead include an anchorage and a tender.
• Currency: the Mexican peso; dollars and cards widely accepted on Quinta Avenida.
• Cenotes: bring a swimsuit, a towel and biodegradable sunscreen, the only kind allowed.
• The return from Tulum is sometimes slowed by traffic: leave some leeway before the all-aboard time.