Hundreds of white and gold stupas rise from the greenery, clinging to the hills that overlook the west bank of the Irrawaddy. That's how Sagaing appears from the deck of the boat, well before docking: an entire landscape devoted to spiritual life, a few kilometres upstream from Mandalay. Once the capital of a 14th-century kingdom, the small city has become over the centuries one of the great centres of Burmese Buddhism. It counts more than six hundred monasteries, where thousands of monks and nuns still study and meditate today.

Arriving on the riverbank

River boats moor directly at the river's edge, at the foot of the hills. As soon as you cross the gangway, the pace changes. The horns of Mandalay seem far away. Here, roads wind between the trees, run along whitewashed walls and cross paths with lines of nuns in pink robes walking toward their monastery, alms bowls under their arms. The climb to the summits is made by vehicle, then on foot via covered stairways that echo with pilgrims' conversations.

The hill of a thousand golden roofs

The high point of the port call lies at an elevation of about 240 metres. At the top of Sagaing Hill, the Soon U Ponya Shin Pagoda has watched over the river for generations. Its terrace offers one of the most memorable panoramas in Burma: the Irrawaddy unrolls its brown waters between sandbanks, while golden spires pierce the canopy as far as the eye can see. On a clear day, you can make out the bridges linking Sagaing to the Mandalay bank. Take the time to sit in the shade of a pillar; the silence, barely broken by a small bell stirred by the wind, explains better than any speech why so many of the faithful choose to study here.

U Min Thonze and its 45 Buddhas

On the hillside, a sanctuary carved in an arc shelters one of the most photographed images in the region. In the U Min Thonze gallery, 45 Buddha statues in golden robes unfold in a long crescent against a backdrop of green tiles. The light coming through the arches casts soft shadows on the stone faces. Visitors move slowly along the colonnade, often accompanied by students in saffron robes happy to practise a few words of English.

The dome of Kaunghmudaw

On the plain, a few kilometres from the hills, the Kaunghmudaw Pagoda surprises with its shape: an immense dome, with no tiers or spire, reminiscent of the ancient stupas of Sri Lanka. The building is among the most revered in the region, and its forecourt comes alive with vendors of flowers, thanaka and wooden toys. It's a good place to observe the daily devotion of Burmese families, away from the busiest circuits.

The artisans' skills

On the way back, several itineraries stop in a silversmiths' village where silver is worked with a hammer, using techniques passed down from father to son. The steady ringing of the tools accompanies the demonstration: ceremonial bowls, jewellery and engraved boxes take shape before your eyes. The workshops sell their wares on site, with no middleman.

Leaving lighter

Heading back down to the river, many travellers notice that they're speaking more softly than on the way up. Sagaing has that effect. The port call requires neither long distances nor a packed program; it simply asks you to open your eyes and slow your pace. Once on board, as the gold-studded hills slowly slip behind the boat, what remains is the image of a place where thousands of people have chosen to devote their lives to calm — and a secret wish to bring a little of it home with you.