Exuma Islands Bahamas, George Town

Bahamas

Hundreds of masts sway in Elizabeth Harbour when sailing season is in full swing. From the ship's deck, the eye moves from the deep blue of the channel to the pale green of the shallows, then to the low hills of Great Exuma. George Town doesn't try to impress. What holds your attention here is what surrounds the village: a sheltered basin, a string of small islands, and light that shifts with every passing cloud.

Arriving Through the Basin

Ships that stop in the Exumas remain at anchor, and tenders bring passengers ashore right into the heart of George Town, near small Lake Victoria. The village can be explored on foot in about half an hour: St. Andrew's Anglican Church watches over its hill, the pink administration building faces the sea, and a few stalls sell woven baskets and local fruit. There's no rush here. Locals greet you as you pass, roosters cross the road, and it quickly becomes clear that this stop unfolds at the pace of the Out Islands.

Stocking Island, Just Across the Way

A water shuttle crosses the basin in about fifteen minutes to Stocking Island, the natural barrier that shelters the anchorage from the open ocean. On its sandy point sits the Chat 'N Chill, an open-air gathering spot where visitors eat grilled fish with their feet in the water while stingrays cruise near shore, well used to conch scraps. Trails then climb up to the island's ridge: on one side, the anchorage dotted with sailboats; on the other, the swell of Exuma Sound rolling onto an empty stretch of coastline.

Sand in Every Form

At low tide, sandbanks emerge amid the turquoise water, some sheltering starfish that visitors can observe without touching. Fast boat excursions head up the chain of islets toward the swimming pigs of Big Major's Cay, a half-day outing best booked early. Those who'd rather stay on land can head to Little Exuma, about forty minutes to the south, where Tropic of Cancer Beach unfurls an almost always empty crescent of sand. A marker there indicates the imaginary line, and the view from the small cliff alone is worth the trip.

A Tradition of Regattas

Every spring, George Town hosts the National Family Island Regatta, the Bahamas' great sailing festival, where wooden sloops built throughout the archipelago compete against one another. The rest of the year, this legacy can be glimpsed in the colourful hulls pulled up on shore and in the pride of local boatbuilders. Near the dock, a few shacks serve conch salad made to order, with lime and fresh chili: the taste of the Exumas fits right into that bowl.

Before Heading Back Aboard

Here are a few pointers for planning the day:

• The village centre is entirely walkable from the landing.
• The shuttle to Stocking Island departs regularly from the waterfront; allow about 15 minutes for the crossing.
• Excursions to the northern islets take up a full half-day; trips to Little Exuma are made by taxi or rental car.
• Payments in U.S. dollars are accepted everywhere.

Later in the day, as the shuttle crosses the basin once more, the sailboats light up one by one in the low, golden light. George Town disappears behind its screen of islets, leaving behind the feeling of having spent a few hours in a world governed by the tides rather than the clock. The Exumas don't reveal themselves all at once: instead, they leave behind a reason to come back, with more time and a snorkel mask packed in the bags.