Shibaozhai China, Yangtze River
Frequently Asked Questions
At a river landing at the foot of the site, in Zhong County within the Chongqing municipality. A footbridge suspended over the water then leads to the pagoda: everything is done on foot from the ship.
About two hours ashore, climb and descent included. It is a short, concentrated stop that makes a welcome change from the long hours of sailing between the Yangtze's farmed banks.
A twelve-storey vermilion timber pavilion pressed against a cliff, 56 metres high. The first nine levels date from 1819; three more were added in 1956. The frame holds together without a single nail, in the local carpenters' tradition.
A temple whose origins go back to the Ming era, under the Wanli reign, and its quiet courtyards. The view opens onto the Yangtze and the farmed hills of the far bank, where terraced fields form a green chequerboard.
It is manageable for anyone comfortable on stairs. Landings let you catch your breath floor by floor, though the last flight is steeper than the rest. Closed shoes are recommended.
Stop at the lower levels: the view is already fine there, and each floor holds carved stones, old paintings and inscriptions left across the dynasties. Nobody has to climb all the way to the temple.
Filling the reservoir turned the rock into a peninsula ringed by water, protected by a purpose-built dike. Access is now by a suspended footbridge, which also offers a fine view of the pagoda as a whole.
A lane of vendors lines the path between the landing and the site entrance. Bargaining is casual and good-humoured, and cash in yuan remains the simplest payment method for a foreign visitor.
Morning light suits the red façade best. Many passengers gather on deck well before arrival, as the pavilion appears round a bend in the river like a lantern set at the water's edge.
Spring and autumn, April to May and September to October: mild temperatures and less stubborn mist on the river. Summer is heavy in the gorges, winter cool and often veiled.
