The colour strikes you first: a gradient of turquoise and deep blue over a bed of white pebbles, framed by pines that run right down to the sea. A century and a half ago, Rabac, on the east coast of Istria, was just a fishing hamlet of a dozen houses; the clarity of its cove turned it into a sought-after Kvarner resort. Ships anchor off the shore and bring their passengers by tender to the heart of the waterfront. The port call naturally divides into two parts: the water down below, and Labin, the hilltop town, high above.

Pebbles and clear water

The coastal promenade links the coves as it follows the pines, never straying from the sound of the waves. Girandella, the best-known beach, lines up its round pebbles under a Blue Flag; from morning on, the water takes on hues more often associated with lagoons. A mask and snorkel are enough to fill an hour: the rocky bottom draws schools of salema and starfish, visible several metres down. Loungers, pedal boats and kayaks are for rent along the shore, and terraces serve grilled fish facing the sailboats. Children appreciate the gentle slope of the coves, and early swimmers often have the water to themselves until late morning. For a day of relaxation, everything happens within walking distance of the landing, between two swims and a coffee in the shade.

Labin, the town above

Five kilometres above stands Labin, the former mining capital of Istria. Coal was extracted from its hills until the end of the 20th century; the old town, however, tells a much longer story. You pass through the San Fior Gate, adorned with the Lion of Venice, to climb cobbled lanes between Gothic and Baroque façades. The red-tinted Battiala-Lazzarini Palace houses the town museum — with, in the basement, a reconstructed mine gallery that you make your way through wearing a helmet, bent over, in the gloom of the old shafts. From the lookout at the top, the view sweeps across the Kvarner to the islands of Cres and Lošinj. A shaded trail climbs from the coast in about forty minutes of steady ascent; taxis and seasonal shuttles spare the effort for those who'd rather save their legs for the lanes — the drive takes barely ten minutes.

Studios and sculptures

Since the 1990s, artists have moved into the tall houses of the old town: ceramics studios, galleries and courtyards turned into exhibition spaces punctuate the climb to the fortress. At the gates of the town, Dubrova Park extends the idea outdoors — more than 70 monumental sculptures carved from white Istrian stone, scattered across the meadows, with free access. A few ceramists work with their doors open, and you can leave with a signed piece. Together, they give this former working-class region a second creative wind that surprises many passengers who came for the beach and leave with images of art galleries.

Quick reference

The sea and the mine

Rabac offers a rare shortcut: the morning in translucent water, the afternoon in the galleries of a mine or facing the sculptures of an Istrian meadow. Two worlds layered one above the other, linked by a trail beneath the pines. Heading back down to the ship, the cove reappears between the branches — and you understand why the fishers of old never felt the urge to go anywhere else.