Borkum Island Germany
Germany

The journey begins with a train ride. On Borkum, the largest of the East Frisian Islands, passengers landing at the port board a small narrow-gauge train that crosses salt meadows and dunes to the town, seven and a half kilometres away. The Borkumer Kleinbahn has been running since 1888, making it Germany's oldest island railway still in service, and its colourful carriages give the arrival the feel of a cheerful little expedition.

An Island Truly Out at Sea

Set in the North Sea between the Ems estuary and the Dutch coast, Borkum takes some effort to reach: ferries take about two hours from Emden, in Germany, or depart from Eemshaven, in the Netherlands. Expedition ships and small coastal cruise vessels call at the port located at the island's southeastern tip. That remoteness has carried a well-known advantage since the 19th century: open-sea air low in pollen, which has made the island a health resort where people come to breathe as much as to swim.

The Town and Its Two Lighthouses

Borkum's town centre lines up seaside villas, shops and tea rooms around a pale concrete promenade overlooking an immense beach, where you can try East Frisian tea, served with its cloud of cream and rock sugar that crackles under the spoon. Two lighthouses tell the story of the place: the old one, a squat 16th-century tower that served as a landmark for navigators long before electricity, and the new one, tall and striped, built in 1879, whose steps lead up to a full panorama over the island, the sandbanks and the cargo ships passing offshore. On a clear day, the view stretches all the way to the Dutch coast.

The Beach, the Wind and the Strandkörbe

The main beach unrolls its pale golden sand for kilometres, dotted with those wicker beach chairs typical of German shores, the Strandkörbe, lined up like sentinels facing the waves. Even outside the summer season, the walk is worth taking: the wind sculpts the dunes, kites climb high, and regulars stride along briskly, bundled up, in what islanders call their "natural spa." In summer, supervised swimming, surf schools and baskets of shrimp round out the scene.

Seals and the Horizon

The sandbanks that emerge at low tide around the island serve as resting spots for grey seals and harbour seals. Boat trips let you approach them without disturbing them; sometimes you can even spot them from shore, a round head bobbing between waves just a few dozen metres from swimmers. Birdwatchers are well served too: the island sits on the edge of the Wadden Sea, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the largest tidal areas on the planet.

Borkum Port Call at a Glance

  • The island train ride between the port and the town, an experience in itself.
  • Windproof clothing, useful in any season.
  • The climb up the new lighthouse for the sweeping view.
  • A break on a terrace, facing the open sea.

The Train Back

When it's time to head back to the port, the little train retraces its route, and the scenery passes by one last time: dunes, meadows, church spires, unbothered sheep. You leave Borkum with sand in your shoes, salt on your lips, and that particular feeling islands leave behind, that of having lived a few hours in a complete world, surrounded by water, that carries on existing without you the moment the ship pulls away.

Frequently Asked Questions

At the harbour on the southeastern tip of the island, where expedition ships and small coastal cruise vessels call. The town lies seven and a half kilometres further on: you do not land in the middle of the resort.
By narrow-gauge train, and that is an experience in itself. The Borkumer Kleinbahn has run since 1888, crossing salt meadows and dunes to the town. It is the oldest island railway still operating in Germany, and its brightly painted carriages give the arrival the air of a cheerful expedition.
In the North Sea, between the Ems estuary and the Dutch coast. It is the largest of the East Frisian Islands. Ferries take about two hours from Emden in Germany, or sail from Eemshaven in the Netherlands.
Because of how far out to sea it lies, which gives it high-sea air low in pollen. The reputation dates from the 19th century: people come here to breathe as much as to bathe.
Two, and they tell the island's story. The old one is a squat 16th-century tower that guided sailors long before electricity. The new one, slender and striped, built in 1879, can be climbed and opens a full panorama over the island, the sandbanks and the passing freighters. In clear weather the view reaches the Dutch coast.
Yes. The sandbanks that emerge at low tide around the island are haul-out sites for grey and harbour seals. Boat trips let you approach without disturbing them; sometimes you spot them from shore, a round head between two waves.
One of the largest tidal systems on the planet, a UNESCO World Heritage site, whose northern edge the island borders. It explains the area's exceptional birdlife and the sandbanks that appear at every low tide.
The hooded wicker beach chairs typical of German shores, lined up like sentries facing the waves on the main beach. They shelter you from the wind, which blows here in every season, and are part of the scenery on any North Sea beach.
Windproof clothing, useful in any season: the wind shapes the dunes and islanders call their seafront walk a natural spa treatment. Bring euros in cash too, since German is the working language and not every small island shop takes cards.
Frisian tea, served with its cloud of cream and rock sugar that cracks under the spoon, in the town's tea rooms. In summer, baskets of shrimp round out the picture, best taken on a terrace facing the open sea.