Linaria doesn't look like much, and that's just fine. Skyros's small port lines up its low houses around a quiet cove, a few trawlers, a chapel on its rock and tavernas serving the catch of the day to waiting travellers. Nothing yet suggests that this island in the Sporades is home to one of the oldest horse breeds in the world, a capital clinging beneath a Byzantine citadel and one of the most vibrant craft traditions in the Aegean. It has to be earned, then it tells its story. Greeks visit it faithfully; international ships are only just beginning to add it to their itineraries.

From Linaria to the Chora

About ten kilometres separate the landing from the Chora, the capital, or about twenty minutes by road. Taxis and excursions provide the connection. The drive crosses a landscape of dry hills dotted with olive trees, until the silhouette of the village appears: a jumble of white cubic houses on the flank of a massive rock, facing the open sea. The ensemble evokes the Cyclades more than the neighbouring Sporades, a peculiarity that is the pride of the islanders.

The climb to the citadel

From the shopping lanes of the Chora, a stepped path climbs toward the Byzantine fortress crowning the rock. Allow about fifteen minutes to climb between the traditional houses, some of which offer glimpses of interiors decorated with painted plates and carved wood, the pride of Skyrian families. At the top, a 9th-century church and the remains of a fortified monastery reward the effort: the view takes in the rooftops, the coast and, on clear days, the islands of the northern Sporades. Below, the long sandy beach bordering the hamlets of Magazia and Molos invites you to end the morning with your feet in the water: it's a short walk down from the last houses, and the seaside tavernas serve fish and garden vegetables beneath reed awnings.

The little horses of Skyros

The island owes part of its fame to its ponies, barely 1.10 metres tall at the withers. The Skyrian breed, one of the rarest and oldest there is, still lives in a semi-wild state in the south of the island, and breeding farms open to visitors work to preserve it. Approaching these gentle animals, often with their foals, is the most endearing memory of many a port call. Visits are made in small groups, often guided by the breeders themselves, and children generally remember them as the highlight of the trip. Organized excursions usually include this stop along with the capital.

Museums, artisans and a poet

Before heading back down, the Faltaits Museum deserves an hour of your time: housed in a family mansion, it brings together embroidery, ceramics, miniature furniture and costumes that tell of the originality of Skyrian culture. The village workshops carry on woodcarving and pottery, and sell pieces made on site rather than imported souvenirs. The island also preserves the memory of the British poet Rupert Brooke, who died offshore in 1915 and is buried in the south of Skyros; a square in the upper village honours his memory.

Practical pointers

• Landing at Linaria; Chora about 10 km away, by taxi or excursion.
• Climb to the citadel: about 15 minutes, uneven steps.
• Skyrian horse farms accessible with organized tours.
• Currency: euro. Local crafts: ceramics, embroidery, carved wood.

On the way back to Linaria, the evening light softens the hills and the ponies return to the shade of their paddocks. Skyros doesn't seek crowds, and passengers leaving it understand that this very discretion is its surest charm: a Greek island that has stayed true to what it is.