Few Caribbean bays can claim such historical depth. It was off Trujillo that Christopher Columbus first set foot on the mainland of the American continent, in 1502, during his last voyage. The town founded here in 1525 ranks among the oldest on the continent, and it was the first capital of Honduras. Today, its red roofs are tiered between a crescent-shaped bay and the forest-covered mountains of Capiro y Calentura.

Banana Coast, the gateway

Ships anchor in the bay and bring their passengers ashore by tender to the Banana Coast terminal, set by the water about two kilometres from the centre. Shuttles cover the distance in about ten minutes, but the place is already worth lingering over: botanical gardens, a strip of sand and a welcome pavilion set the tone for a port of call that is still young, open to cruise tourism only since the 2010s. Here, there are no crowds and no well-worn circuits: local guides are still learning visitors' habits, and this freshness is part of the pleasure.

The fortress above the bay

In the upper part of town, Santa Bárbara Fortress has watched over the anchorage since the seventeenth century. Its weathered walls have withstood pirate attacks, including those of the buccaneers who then plundered the coast, and its rooms display muskets, cannonballs and Garifuna masks. This is also where the American adventurer William Walker, who dreamed of conquering Central America, was executed by firing squad in 1860; his grave can be visited in the old cemetery nearby. From the ramparts, the view takes in the entire curve of the shore, ship included.

Squares, lanes and coastal cuisine

Around the central park, Trujillo lives without hurry: a church facing the square, schoolchildren in uniform, sugar cane juice vendors in the shade of almond trees. The waterfront restaurants serve grilled fish, seafood soups and machuca, a Garifuna dish made of mashed plantain and coconut milk. The long curve of sand, just below, then invites you to walk, your feet in calm water sheltered by the cape. The village of Santa Fe, reachable by road or by boat along the coast, offers a deeper look at this culture born of the meeting between Africans and Caribs, whose drums often accompany visiting groups.

Lagoon, waterfalls and forest

Nature lovers are spoiled for choice. The Guaimoreto Lagoon, a protected reserve close by, can be explored by kayak through mangrove tunnels, under the watchful eye of roseate spoonbills, iguanas and sometimes a manatee. On the mountain side, trails in the neighbouring park lead to cool waterfalls deep in the forest, while the more active opt for a zip line or a horseback ride along the shore. The ship's excursions generally combine transportation, guide and equipment, a convenient option in a region that is still not very organized.

Back by tender

When the tender heads back to the ship, the late-day light gilds the walls of the fortress and the slopes of the Calentura. You leave a port of call that has not yet learned to pose for visitors, where the history of the continent began and where it is still told in a low voice, between a shady square and a Garifuna drum.

Practical pointers

• Tender landing at the Banana Coast terminal; shuttles to the centre in about ten minutes.
• Santa Bárbara Fortress and the historic centre are easily visited on foot once in town.
• U.S. dollars accepted in tourist areas; bring lempiras for small shops.
• Rainy season from October to January: good shoes come in handy on the trails.