Ganges cruises begin far from the sacred river: most itineraries start in the Indian capital, with two or three days ashore before joining the ship. This urban prelude is no mere formality. New Delhi layers two worlds that could not be more different: the tree-lined avenues of the new city, designed by the British in the early 20th century, and the teeming labyrinth of the old Mughal city. Moving from one to the other is already a journey.

Old Delhi, shoulder to shoulder

Start with the old heart, preferably in the morning. The Red Fort raises its sandstone walls for more than two kilometres, a reminder of the power of Emperor Shah Jahan, who established his court there in the 17th century. Opposite, the Chandni Chowk thoroughfare plunges into a tangle of lanes where each alley has its specialty: saris, spices, jewellery and flower garlands. The cycle rickshaw remains the best way to get around, carried along by the flow of scooters and porters. Nearby, the Jama Masjid, one of the largest mosques in India, opens its great paved courtyard, where the din suddenly falls away.

New Delhi, the city of avenues

A complete change of scenery to the south: the administrative city lines up monumental vistas, flower-filled roundabouts and colonnaded government buildings. India Gate, a stone arch dedicated to Indian soldiers who fell in the First World War, marks the centre of gravity of this imperial ensemble. Not far away, the Raj Ghat memorial, a simple slab of black marble set in a garden, honours Gandhi at the site of his cremation; the contrast between the simplicity of the place and the bustle of the metropolis leaves a lasting impression. The Lodhi Gardens, a little farther south, scatter domed tombs of the medieval sultanates across their lawns: morning joggers, parakeets and picnickers share the shade of the great trees.

Two listed masterpieces

Two World Heritage Sites deserve half a day. Humayun's Tomb, a direct precursor of the Taj Mahal, sets its white dome on a perfect interplay of red sandstone and gardens criss-crossed by canals; here you understand where all the Mughal architecture that followed came from. Farther south, the Qutb Minar rises 73 metres, a sandstone tower carved with calligraphy that has stood there since the 13th century, amid the remains of the region's first Muslim city.

Flavours and bazaars

Between visits, the capital is there to be tasted: creamy northern curries, naan breads pulled from the tandoor, spiced tea served piping hot in small cups and pistachio kulfi to end the meal. Plan for breaks: the heat and density of the metropolis are best taken in measured doses, especially at the start of your stay. The covered markets and shopping arcades around Connaught Place let you bring home teas, textiles and handicrafts without leaving the centre. Your cruise tour leader will be able to steer you toward safe places to eat, advice worth its weight in gold on a first trip to India.

Toward the river

After these packed days, the group takes to the road or the air toward the Ganges and its ship. The capital will have served as an entry airlock: eyes have grown used to the colours, ears to the tumult, and appetites have been whetted. The sacred river will tell of another India, slower and more ritual; the capital will have offered the first immersion, the one you remember precisely because it shakes you up.