Let's be frank: no one comes ashore in Tomakomai for Tomakomai. This large industrial port on Hokkaido's south coast, with its paper mills and container terminals, serves above all as a gateway to Sapporo, the metropolis of northern Japan, about fifty kilometres away. Well organized, however, the port call opens up a fascinating day, between the regional capital and the volcanic landscapes of the surrounding area. It's all a matter of planning.

Getting to Sapporo

Independent passengers have two options. The JR train links Tomakomai station to the city centre in about an hour; local buses shuttle between the port area and the station in about twenty minutes. Direct motorcoaches also run from the port in roughly 90 minutes, depending on traffic. The excursions sold on board simplify the logistics, a real advantage when the departure time leaves little margin. In any case, keeping a comfortable time buffer for the return trip saves a lot of nail-biting.

Sapporo in a few hours

Born at the end of the 19th century during the development of the island, the metropolis is laid out on an American-style grid, which makes finding your way much easier. The Clock Tower, a remnant of the first agricultural college, and the former Hokkaido Government Office, an imposing red-brick building surrounded by gardens, are the two classic heritage stops. Continue to the covered arcades of Tanukikoji for shopping, then to the ramen counters, where the miso bowl, a local specialty, warms up even cool days. Beer lovers will finish at the garden of the Sapporo brewery, one of the oldest in the country.

The nature option: Lake Toya and Mount Usu

Another possible program: head west to Lake Toya, a caldera with crystal-clear water surrounded by forest, about two hours away by road. Lake cruises circle between the central islands, and a cable car climbs Mount Usu, an active volcano whose steaming craters dominate the panorama. The combination of lake, volcano and sea horizon ranks among the finest natural scenes in the region; it suits travellers who already know the regional capital or who prefer the great outdoors to city avenues.

The journey is part of the trip

Between the industrial coast and the suburbs of the regional capital, the railway line crosses countryside dotted with greenhouses, silos and birch groves, a glimpse of agricultural Hokkaido few tours show. In winter, snow turns the route into a woodblock print; in summer, the fields display every shade of green. Keeping a window seat, tea in hand, turns a simple transfer into a contemplative moment.

If you stay near the ship

The immediate surroundings of the port offer few attractions, but the city has its seafood markets where hokki, a large local clam, is enjoyed as sashimi or over rice. A stroll downtown gives a glimpse of working-class, maritime Japan, far from the tourist circuits, with its izakayas and unpretentious storefronts. You eat very well there, too, for a fraction of the price charged in the metropolis's busy districts.

A port call that requires preparation

Tomakomai rewards organized passengers: those who choose their goal in the morning, the big city or Lake Toya, and stick to it. You return on board with images of red brick and steaming bowls, or of craters and calm waters, depending on the route chosen. Either way, Hokkaido will have shown one of its faces, and given you a good reason to explore the other on a future visit.