For more than a thousand years, pilgrims have walked toward the mountains of the Kii Peninsula to reach the three grand shrines of Kumano. Shingu, a small city of about 30,000 inhabitants wedged between the Pacific and the deep forests of Wakayama, guards one of the three. Calling here means entering by sea a land of mist, cedars and ancient deities, the one still travelled today by hikers on the Kumano Kodo, a network of trails inscribed on the World Heritage List alongside the routes to Santiago de Compostela.

A port call on a human scale

The commercial port welcomes ships a short distance from the centre, and the city is then explored on foot or by bike: the main sites are 15 to 20 minutes from one another. Bikes can be rented near the station, notably at Jofuku Park, a small Chinese-style garden dedicated to Xu Fu, the emissary of the Chinese emperor who, according to legend, landed on these shores in search of an elixir of immortality. The scene is set: in Shingu, history and myth share the streets unselfconsciously, and residents greet visitors with a calm nod.

Hayatama Taisha, the vermilion shrine

A quarter of an hour from the station, Hayatama Taisha lines up its brilliant vermilion pavilions beneath the trees. It's one of the region's three great holy sites, the heart of a spirituality that blends kami worship and Buddhism, and the destination of generations of pilgrims arriving by mountain trail as well as by river. You move through it slowly, among stone lanterns and amulets, in an atmosphere of simple devotion that touches even passing visitors, believers or not.

Kamikura, the stairway to the sacred rock

The most intense experience awaits on the hillside. Kamikura Shrine, considered the cradle of local faith, nestles against a massive rock venerated since time immemorial. It's reached by a steep stone stairway, climbed at your own pace, one hand on the railing and the other on your knee; at the top, the reward outweighs the effort: the city's rooftops, the curve of the coast and the Pacific unfold in a single glance. Allow about 30 minutes from the station to reach the foot of the stairs, then the time for the climb, which varies with each person's stamina.

On to Nachi, the great waterfall

Excursions offered at the pier often lead, an hour's drive away, to Nachi Taisha Shrine and its neighbour, Nachi Falls, the highest single-drop waterfall in Japan. The red pagoda standing before the ribbon of white water makes up one of the most reproduced images in the country, and seeing it in person still has its full effect, especially when the mist clings to the slopes. For passengers who wish to take in the essence of the Kumano region in a single day, it's the natural complement to the city's two shrines.

Practical pointers

• Walking shoes recommended: cobblestones, roots and uneven steps are part of the program.
• The tourist office at the station provides maps in English and route suggestions.
• Admission to the shrines is free; small offerings and amulets make lovely souvenirs.
• In hot weather, bring water before climbing to Kamikura: there are no shops along the way.

Heading back down to the ship

On the way back, many carry in their legs the memory of the Kamikura stairway and, in their eyes, that blend of dark forest and vermilion found only in this corner of the Kii Peninsula. Shingu doesn't try to hold on to travellers; it sets them on their way, as it has done for pilgrims for centuries. You return on board feeling you've touched something very old, and with the idea, who knows, of coming back one day to finish the route on foot.