From the west bank of the Irrawaddy, Bagan is seen differently: thousands of temples set in the mist on the other side of the river. It is here, facing Myanmar's most famous plain, that river boats stop at Tant Kyi Taung. The hill that gives the call its name bears an almost thousand-year-old pagoda, the goal of a pilgrimage that cruise passengers share for a morning with Burmese worshippers.

A stop on the west bank

Ships moor against the sandy bank at the foot of the village. Passengers disembark by gangway, among buffalo and carts coming down to drink from the river. As soon as you're ashore, the rural setting takes over: bamboo houses on stilts, rice granaries and children who walk alongside visitors on the path. The hill rises in the background, crowned with a golden gleam. The contrast with the tourist bustle on the opposite bank is immediately striking: here, there are no line-ups or souvenir shops, just the daily life of a farming hamlet.

The climb to the pagoda

Local vehicles climb the track that winds to the summit, a bumpy ride that is part of the fun. As you climb, the Irrawaddy widens in the landscape and the village rooftops shrink. You hold on tight, laugh a lot, and the drivers, proud of their vehicles, cheerfully honk at every bend. The last few metres are walked barefoot, as at all the country's sacred sites: sandals stay at the entrance, and the marble of the terraces is surprisingly cool in the early morning.

An eleventh-century sanctuary

The pagoda was built in 1059 during the reign of King Anawrahta, founder of the first great Burmese kingdom. Tradition holds that it enshrines a tooth relic of the Buddha, making it one of the region's revered sanctuaries. Some thirty elephant statues encircle the base of the building, facing in every direction. Gilding, bells and flower offerings create a lively ensemble, lovingly maintained by pilgrims. Burmese families picnic here after prayers, and foreign visitors are often invited to share tea and group photos.

The view over Bagan

From the terraces, the eye takes in the bend of the river and, in the distance, the plain of Bagan bristling with brick temples. The site, inscribed on the World Heritage List, is glimpsed rather than seen in detail: that is precisely what makes the view memorable. Photographers will wait for breaks of light between the clouds, when the distant stupas catch the sun one by one. Tea is happily shared in the shade of the terraces before the descent.

The village on the way back

The descent leads back to the dirt lanes, where life goes on: weaving beneath the houses, peanuts drying, sweet tea offered in the shade. The boats often organize a guided walk that captures the daily life of this peaceful bank, untouched by the mass tourism that animates the opposite shore.

Tips for the visit

• Shoulders and knees covered, shoes that are easy to remove: the rules of sacred sites apply.
• The ride up takes about twenty minutes; bring some small change for offerings.
• The more athletic can climb on foot, with good shoes and an early start.
• The softer morning light favours the view over the plain of a thousand temples.

As the boat gets under way, the golden hill keeps watch over the river for a long time. The call will have offered what few itineraries allow: seeing Bagan as the villagers across the river have seen it for centuries, from afar, with respect, like a promise set on the horizon.