Zutphen Netherlands Gelderland
Netherlands

Port of Zutphen, Netherlands | Cruise Port Guide

Zutphen is nicknamed the “City of Towers,” and approaching by the IJssel River immediately reveals why: church spires, turrets and fortified gates compete for attention along the skyline above the rooftops. River cruise ships dock at the Houthaven basin, just a few minutes' walk from a historic centre that connoisseurs rank among the best-preserved in northwestern Europe. Once an important Hanseatic stronghold on the Rhine trade route, this town in Gelderland also holds a treasure of which only a handful of examples remain in the world: a library with chained books.

First Steps Towards the Market

From the quay, it's a short walk to the central squares — Groenmarkt, Houtmarkt and Zaadmarkt — whose names recall the goods once traded there: vegetables, timber and seeds. Their façades showcase seven centuries of commercial architecture, from brick Gothic to Dutch Classicism. On market days, stalls reclaim the cobblestones as they did in Hanseatic times, while the aroma of syrup waffles mingles with the scent of farmstead cheeses.

The Librije: Knowledge in Chains

Attached to the magnificent St. Walburga's Church, the Librije has occupied the same room since 1564. Its volumes are still secured to the reading desks with iron chains, a period solution to prevent absent-minded borrowers from walking off with the books. Incunabula, atlases and theological treatises have remained in place for more than four and a half centuries, bathed in the slanting light from the mullioned windows. Only a handful of comparable libraries survive in Europe, and the emotion visitors feel when standing before these rows of chained books makes the trip worthwhile in itself. The neighbouring church also deserves a visit, with its painted vaults, monumental brass chandelier and late-medieval baptismal font.

A Tour of the Towers

The walk continues from one tower to the next:

  • the Drogenapstoren, a 15th-century gate topped with turrets that once served as the home of a municipal trumpeter;
  • the Wijnhuistoren, whose carillon plays melodies above the former wine house;
  • the Berkelpoort, a rare Gothic water gate spanning the small Berkel River, beneath which canoes and ducks glide.

Between these landmarks, narrow lanes reveal hidden courtyards, convent gardens and artisan shops. The hofjes, small courtyards surrounded by charitable almshouses, sometimes open their gates to discreet passersby.

A Break by the River

The IJssel quays invite visitors to slow down: terraces facing the bridge, barges travelling upstream and groups of cyclists — this is the Netherlands, after all. The town centre's traditional brown cafés serve regional beers and generous open-faced sandwiches, while those with a sweet tooth should seek out the thick speculaas biscuits that Gelderland's bakers take pride in. A detour to the municipal museum, housed in a former urban palace, completes the picture of the city, from Hanseatic coins to Golden Age paintings.

A Connection with Canada

Canadian visitors will find a particularly meaningful connection here: in April 1945, Canadian troops liberated Zutphen after fierce fighting along the IJssel. The residents have not forgotten — plaques and memorials bear witness to this history, and the maple leaf flag still flies during Liberation anniversary commemorations. Many visitors from Quebec are moved to discover this shared chapter of history while wandering through a narrow lane in Gelderland.

What the Chains Preserve

On the way back to the Houthaven, the towers remain in view with every backward glance. Zutphen has endured sieges, fires and occupations without abandoning what it holds dear: its books, its stone buildings and its river. The chains of the Librije have never held anything but paper captive; the spirit of the place, meanwhile, moves freely — and is happy to come aboard with passengers setting off again along the IJssel.

Frequently Asked Questions

At the Houthaven basin on the IJssel, a few minutes' walk from the historic centre. No shuttle required.
Because spires, turrets and fortified gates crowd the skyline above the rooftops. The approach along the IJssel makes the nickname obvious at once.
A chained library, in the same room since 1564, attached to St Walburga's Church. The volumes are still fastened to the reading desks with iron chains — only a handful of comparable libraries survive in Europe.
The Librije and St Walburga's Church, then the round of towers — Drogenapstoren, Wijnhuistoren, Berkelpoort — and the market squares. Finish on a terrace by the IJssel. It all fits within walking distance.
Entirely. From the quay to the Groenmarkt, Houtmarkt and Zaadmarkt squares is a few minutes, and the historic centre ranks among the best preserved in northwestern Europe.
Canadian troops liberated the town in April 1945 after hard fighting along the IJssel. Plaques and memorials mark it, and the maple leaf still flies on Liberation anniversaries.
A rare Gothic water gate spanning the small Berkel river, with boats and ducks passing beneath. It is one of three landmark towers on the walk, alongside the fifteenth-century Drogenapstoren and the carillon-topped Wijnhuistoren.
The euro, and Dutch — English is widely spoken. Cards are accepted everywhere, including at the markets.
The brown cafes in the centre serve regional beers and generous open sandwiches. Anyone with a sweet tooth should look for the thick speculaas the Gelderland bakers are proud of; on market days, syrup waffles and farm cheeses take over the cobbles.
Yes, provided you accept cobblestones. Distances are short, but the narrow lanes and uneven paving call for solid shoes. The IJssel quays, by contrast, are flat and lined with terraces.