It was on this stretch of the Welsh coast that Britain's last invasion took place, in 1797: fourteen hundred French soldiers landed a few kilometres west of Fishguard, before surrendering two days later — disarmed, so the story goes, in part thanks to the local women led by cobbler Jemima Nicholas. Ships anchoring in the bay today send passengers ashore by tender, and the welcome has taken on a different character: choirs and groups of schoolchildren in costume often wait on the quay.

Two Towns in One

Fishguard is made up of two distinct parts. Atop the cliff, the main town gathers shops, pubs, and squares around the high street. Below, tucked into a cove, lies Lower Town: a former fishing harbour of cottages clustered around a small basin where a handful of boats bob at their moorings. This setting was used to film Under Milk Wood, based on the work by Dylan Thomas, and it retains a strong regional character. The path connecting the two neighbourhoods offers lovely views out over the bay.

The Last Invasion Tapestry

Inside the town hall, a singular work draws visitors in: a 30-metre embroidered tapestry, created by 80 local women for the 1997 bicentenary, that tells the story of the failed invasion in the style of the Bayeux Tapestry. Scene by scene, stitch by stitch, it follows the French landing, the raids on local farms, the mobilization of townspeople, and the final surrender. The quiet humour of the embroidery, the detail in the costumes, and the local pride it conveys make it a surprisingly endearing experience.

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Fishguard opens onto the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, Britain's only national park that is essentially coastal. The trail that circles it passes right through town, and just an hour's walk east or west is enough to understand this area's reputation: dark cliffs dotted with heather, inaccessible coves, grey seals lazing on the rocks, gannets diving offshore. The stretch toward Strumble Head and its lighthouse ranks among the wildest in the principality. Everyone can set the length of their walk according to their return time on board.

St Davids, the Smallest City in the Kingdom

About 25 kilometres to the southwest, St Davids holds a singular title: it is the smallest city in the United Kingdom to hold city status, thanks to its medieval cathedral built on the site where Saint David, patron saint of Wales, founded his monastery. The building, set in a hollow to escape raiders arriving from the sea, surprises with its spacious interior and carved oak ceiling. The ruins of the neighbouring bishop's palace round out the visit. Allow half a day, including the coach ride or organized excursion.

Before Heading Ashore

  • Landing is by tender depending on the ship; the shuttle drops passengers near the Irish ferry terminal.
  • The Last Invasion Tapestry can be viewed free of charge in the town hall, right in the centre.
  • Lower Town is a roughly fifteen-minute walk away via the coast path.
  • Bring waterproof clothing: Welsh weather changes without warning.

Fishguard cultivates a hospitality the Welsh have turned into an art form: people here sing readily, tell the local history with a wink, and happily point the way to the cliffs without needing to be asked twice. The stop leaves behind this distinctive blend: a feat of arms stitched in wool thread, cottages tucked into a cove, the sea wind sweeping over the moor. Enough to make you want to explore the rest of the Welsh coastline someday, on foot.

Frequently Asked Questions

Ships anchor in the bay and bring passengers ashore by tender. The shuttle drops off near the Irish ferry terminal. The welcome is often warm: choirs and groups of schoolchildren in costume regularly wait for passengers on the quay.
Yes, but the call splits in two. On the clifftop, the main town gathers shops, pubs and squares around the high street. Below, at the head of a cove, Lower Town is about fifteen minutes away by the coast path — with a good climb on the way back.
The Last Invasion Tapestry in the town hall, the walk down to Lower Town and an hour on the coast path fill the call without rushing. Those who prefer one big attraction should choose the excursion to St Davids and its cathedral instead.
A 30-metre embroidery made by 80 local women for the 1997 bicentenary, telling the story of the failed French invasion of 1797 in the manner of the Bayeux Tapestry. It can be seen free of charge in the town hall in the centre and takes only half an hour.
Yes, in 1797. Fourteen hundred French soldiers landed a few kilometres west of Fishguard before surrendering two days later — disarmed, so the story goes, partly thanks to the local women led by the cobbler Jemima Nicholas.
It runs through the town itself, and an hour's walk east or west is enough to understand its reputation: dark cliffs flecked with heather, unreachable coves, grey seals on the rocks and gannets diving offshore. The stretch towards Strumble Head and its lighthouse is among the wildest in Wales.
Yes, about 25 kilometres to the southwest, by coach or organised excursion. St Davids is the smallest place in the United Kingdom with city status, thanks to its medieval cathedral built in a hollow to hide from raiders coming off the sea. Allow half a day including travel.
Yes, for families who enjoy walking. The tapestry reads like a comic strip and holds children's attention well, and Lower Town, with its boats and cottages packed around the basin, is easy to explore. The coast path runs along sheer drops: keep younger children on the inland side.
Pounds sterling. Welsh is an official language and appears on every sign, but everyone speaks English. Cards work in the town centre shops; carry a little cash for the smaller places in Lower Town.
May to September, for the long days and the cliffs in flower. Bring waterproofs in any season: Welsh weather changes without warning, and the tender landing depends on conditions in the bay.