The first sound of the call isn't the mooring lines: it's the raucous cry of sulphur-crested cockatoos, perched on the railings like a cheeky welcoming committee. Hamilton Island, the most populated island in the Whitsundays archipelago, in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef lagoon, is discovered from the sea. Ships anchor offshore and the boats bring passengers straight to the marina village, among sailboats, cafés and shops facing water so blue it looks retouched.

An island without cars

Here, almost everyone gets around by golf cart or on foot. The waterfront brings together ice cream shops, terraces and stores along a path lined with palm trees and bougainvillea. The scale is reassuring from the start: most of the island can be covered in little time, and free shuttles complete the trips to the beaches and the heights. You quickly match your pace to that of the Australian holidaymakers, sandals on their feet, towel over one shoulder, sunscreen in hand. Shops accept cards everywhere, trails are marked and drinking water flows from the fountains: rarely has an island call required so little logistics and left so much freedom. Agile wallabies, small rock kangaroos, can sometimes be glimpsed in the shade of the hibiscus.

Catseye Beach, the seaside heart

About ten minutes' walk from the landing, Catseye Bay unrolls its crescent of pale sand facing the neighbouring islands. At low tide, the sea recedes far out and leaves a warm lagoon where you wade through a few centimetres of clear water. Kiosks rent paddleboards, kayaks and snorkelling gear; the loungers simply invite you to watch the clouds drift over the Whitsunday Passage. From November to May, jellyfish season in Queensland, the protective suits supplied with rentals make swimming worry-free: regulars put them on without a second thought, like just another swimsuit. Facing northeast, the bay stays surprisingly calm even when the trade wind picks up on the other side of the island.

Climbing to the panoramas

The hills offer tiered viewpoints over the archipelago. The most accessible, One Tree Hill, is reached in about twenty minutes of climbing: the reward is a 360-degree panorama over the channels, the white sails and the gradients of turquoise. Seasoned hikers continue to Passage Peak, the island's summit at 230 metres, on a more demanding trail of about two hours round trip, preferably early in the day. Everywhere, the cockatoos eye backpacks with undisguised interest: it's best to keep snacks sealed.

Neighbours worth dreaming about

From the pontoons, excursions head to Whitehaven Beach, on neighbouring Whitsunday Island, regularly ranked among the most beautiful beaches in Australia for its seven kilometres of almost unreally white silica sand. Other outings lead to the coral reefs for snorkelling among parrotfish and giant clams. Those who stay ashore can greet koalas and reptiles at the small local wildlife park, or simply treat themselves to a full golf-cart tour, with a detour to the southern lookouts and an ice cream break in the shade of the palms.

Port of call at a glance

At the end of the day, when the boat takes passengers back to the ship, the island comes down to a line of green hills set on an improbably blue sea. You leave with salt on your skin, cockatoo cries in your ears and the quiet certainty that the Whitsundays are worth coming back to, under sail next time.