Rumour has it that Robert Louis Stevenson had this place in mind when he wrote Treasure Island. It is impossible to prove. The treasure, however, is a matter of record: in 1750, the mutinous crew of a Spanish galleon landed chests of silver coins here, only part of which was recovered by the authorities. Norman Island, at the southern tip of the British Virgin Islands, is uninhabited today; what remain are seabirds, two spots for yachters and tales of buccaneers told in the evening at anchor. Less than three square kilometres of dry hills covered in cactus and frangipani: exactly the setting you imagine when reading an adventure novel.

The Bight, the sheltered bay

Ships drop anchor in The Bight, a vast horseshoe sheltered from the swell and one of the most popular anchorages in the archipelago: yesterday by pirates who came to careen their hulls, today by charter sailboats that number in the dozens at sunset. The tender drops passengers on the sand at Pirates Bight, a restaurant with long tables set beneath the trees and the starting point for trails up to the ridge. Chairs can be rented on the sand for those who prefer to watch the boats come and go, a glass of iced lemonade within reach.

The caves of Treasure Point

At the mouth of the bay, the cliff at Treasure Point opens onto four sea caves accessible by swimming. Shallow and never far from daylight, they suit swimmers of all levels: you will find clouds of small silver fish, bluish reflections at the entrance and a soft half-light at the back. The site ranks among the busiest in the Virgin Islands for snorkelling; going early, before the excursion catamarans arrive, makes all the difference. Along the way, you can look down on the bay's seagrass beds, where green turtles sometimes graze, indifferent to swimmers. Excursions often continue to the Indians, four rocky pinnacles breaking the surface a short distance to the northwest, another renowned site where coral and sponges carpet the walls.

The Willy T, a floating bar

In the middle of the bay floats an unusual silhouette: the William Thornton, the "Willy T" to regulars, a restaurant ship anchored there for decades and rebuilt after Hurricane Irma in 2017. You pull up by tender for a simple meal or a drink; the boldest jump from the upper deck to applause from the tables. The place sums up the spirit of the island: nautical, festive and unpretentious. Families may prefer the tables at the beach restaurant, quieter at lunchtime.

The ridge and the Sir Francis Drake Channel

From Pirates Bight, trails climb toward the ridgeline. About twenty minutes of effort are enough to look out over the Sir Francis Drake Channel, named after the Elizabethan privateer who sailed these waters: Tortola blocks the horizon to the north, Peter Island stretches to the east, and white sails dot the blue of the channel. Wind, cactus and frigatebirds keep you company; few passengers climb this far, which adds to the pleasure. Bring good sandals: the ground is rocky and the sun merciless.

Returning on board, everyone takes away their own version of the treasure: the chests of silver never all recovered, or simply an hour spent weightless among the fish, in waters that old charts reserved for pirates.

Practical pointers

• A port call on the itineraries of small ships and sailing vessels; anchoring and landing by tender.
• Uninhabited island: no shops apart from the bay's two restaurants.
• The U.S. dollar is the archipelago's official currency.
• For the caves, a pool noodle or a flotation vest makes swimming more relaxing.