The ship anchors in a horseshoe-shaped bay, facing a dark sand beach fringed with palm trees. Tenders bring passengers ashore at the Los Sueños Marina, one of the best-equipped on Central America's Pacific coast, and the contrast is obvious from the very first steps: on one side, immaculate docks lined with deep-sea fishing boats; on the other, green hills enclosing Herradura Bay. Costa Rica's central Pacific region begins right here, just a handful of kilometres from the beach town of Jacó.

The Marina and the Bay

The Los Sueños complex grew up around its docks, and the place lends itself well to unplanned wandering: terraces facing the masts, shops, and shaded walkways where iguanas hold court. Look up while walking: scarlet macaws sometimes cross the sky over the bay, calling loudly, a reminder that the forest is never far, even amid the yachts. Sport fishing enthusiasts are in the right place, as the local fleet ranks among the country's most reputable for sailfish and marlin. Those who prefer a slower pace can head to nearby Herradura Beach, whose sheltered waters are well suited to swimming, or treat themselves to a round at the resort's golf course, carved right out of the tropical vegetation.

Carara, Where the Scarlet Macaws Gather

About 25 minutes' drive to the north, Carara National Park protects a transitional forest between the dry climate of Guanacaste and the humidity of the south, making it one of the country's best birdwatching sites. Its flat, well-maintained trails suit walkers of every level. The star attraction here is the scarlet macaw, whose noisy pairs streak across the canopy like flashes of red; trogons, motmots, and herons round out the scene for anyone walking slowly, binoculars in hand. Right next door, the bridge over the Tárcoles River offers a different kind of spectacle: sizeable American crocodiles bask on the mudbanks, safely visible from the bridge deck above.

Sea, Mangrove, and Forest

Excursions departing from the marina cover the full range of what Costa Rica has to offer. A catamaran reaches Tortuga Island in under an hour for a day of pale sand, swimming, and snorkelling. Trips into the mangroves of the Damas Estuary run by flat-bottomed boat or kayak, gliding past the roots where herons, colourful crabs, and capuchin monkeys hide. Those with more energy to spare can opt for zip lines soaring over the canopy of the nearby hills or a whitewater rafting run, while Jacó, just a short drive away, lines up restaurants, surf schools, and shops in the relaxed atmosphere of a beach town. Its long grey beach draws surfers of every level, and the seafront cafés make it easy to watch their moves without getting wet.

Planning Your Hours Ashore

The humid heat of the central Pacific is easier to handle in the morning: that's the best time for the trails at Carara and for boat trips, before the sun climbs directly overhead. Bring sun protection, plenty of water, and American currency in small bills, widely accepted. The tender back departs from the same dock as the arrival: keep the time of the last run in mind, especially if you're heading off to explore Jacó on your own.

As the ship calls its passengers back, the fishing boats head in too, catch flags raised, and the parrots return to the hills in a joyful racket. Herradura will have offered a day of two faces, half modern comfort, half exuberant nature. That's exactly Costa Rica's equation, and few stops sum it up quite so well.