Here, the Sinai plunges into a sea of an almost unreal blue. In Sharm el-Sheikh, the ochre mountains of the desert descend all the way to the coral reefs, and this face-off between bare rock and underwater gardens gives the port call its whole personality. People come first for the water: the Egyptian resort ranks among the world's top spots for diving and snorkelling, with reefs accessible just a few metres from shore. The rest of the day is shared between beaches, terraces and souks, as each person pleases, in a dry heat that the sea breeze makes surprisingly bearable.

Port call landmarks

Ships dock at the port, located about 7 km south of the centre. Taxis wait at the exit; agreeing on the price before getting in remains the golden rule here, and the negotiation is done without hostility. Distances remain short, making it easy to combine swimming, the market and an outing at sea in a single day, without ever rushing.

Ras Mohammed, the great reef

At the southern tip of the peninsula, Ras Mohammed National Park protects coral walls famous around the world. Clownfish in the anemones, schools of fusiliers, sea fans spread out in the current: even simply snorkelling at the surface, the show goes on without pause. Excursions get there by road or by boat, and local centres cater to certified divers and beginners alike. The region's wrecks, some of which tell stories of the Second World War, draw experienced divers, who then talk about them all evening at the ship's bar.

Naama Bay, the midday and evening promenade

Naama Bay is the hub of beach life: a pedestrian walkway borders the beach, lined with cafés, terraces and shops. You settle in for a freshly squeezed mango juice, a mint tea or a shisha, your feet a few metres from the sand. Swimming here is easy and supervised, making it the obvious choice for families who want a day without logistics, towel over the shoulder and sunscreen in the bag.

The Old Market, the resort's other face

To find a taste of Egypt beyond the hotel complexes, the Old Market lines up its stalls of spices, lamps, fabrics and dates. Haggling is part of the game, always with a smile; the vendors, formidable polyglots, appreciate it when you take the time to chat. A few words of Arabic learned on the ship's deck open many doors, and often a glass of tea offered on the spot.

Practical tips

• Your own mask and snorkel deserve a place in your bag: some beaches open directly onto the reef.
• Reef-safe sunscreen, a hat and plenty of water: the Sinai sun is unforgiving.
• The Egyptian pound is used for small purchases; major currencies are accepted almost everywhere.
• For Ras Mohammed, book early: morning departures offer the calmest sea.

Leaving the Red Sea

As the ship pulls away from the coast, the Sinai mountains turn pink in the evening light and the water's surface once again hides its gardens. Those who spent the day below the surface return on board with their heads full of images: a reef is a world, and this one is among the most alive there is. A single port call is rarely enough for Red Sea lovers; most leave already working out when they can dive back in.