Ancenis France

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MS Lafayette

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Cruise CE Croisieurope MS Loire Princesse ship

Ms Loire Princesse

94 Passengers
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The Loire answers to no one. Free of dams along its entire lower course, it shifts its sandbanks with every flood and sets its own water level for navigators. A ship had to be designed just for it: the Loire Princesse, powered by paddle wheels and built for shallow water, with docks at Ancenis fitted out specifically for her. Passengers step ashore just minutes from the old town centre, on the riverbank that once looked Brittany straight in the eye.

The Gateway to Brittany

For centuries, the border between the Duchy of Brittany and the Kingdom of France ran right here. Ancenis Castle, founded in 984 by the Dukes of Brittany, controlled passage on the river; it was here, in 1468, that the treaty was signed sealing Francis II's submission to Louis XI, a prelude to the duchy's annexation by the kingdom. The interior isn't open to visitors, but a walk around the moat and grounds reveals a Renaissance residence grafted onto the medieval towers, with fine views over the valley.

A Town Between Two Regions

Around Saint-Pierre Church, narrow streets are lined with old town houses, former river-merchant residences and local shopfronts. The natural slope leads down to the quays, where river trade on the Loire long made the town's fortune: wine, salt and cloth passed through here before the railway arrived. The suspension bridge across the river today symbolically links Brittany and Anjou; downstream, the medieval keep at Oudon still watches over boats passing by, just as it did in the days of feudal river tolls. Crossing the bridge on foot, above the pale sandbanks, gives a real sense of the current and its moods.

Du Bellay on the Other Bank

Just across the river, on the Anjou side, the village of Liré was the birthplace of Joachim du Bellay. It was with these hillsides in mind that he wrote "Heureux qui, comme Ulysse, a fait un beau voyage" ("Happy is he who, like Ulysses, has made a beautiful voyage"), longing for the gentle Anjou countryside from his exile in Rome. The landscape he missed is still there to see: flood-plain meadows, poplars, slate church spires. Few ports of call come with an entire poem as their view.

The Hillside Vineyards

The Coteaux d'Ancenis produces wines that remain little known beyond the region: a light red made from gamay grapes and a sweet malvoisie that pairs well with local cheeses. Several nearby estates welcome visitors for tastings, often offered as an excursion by the river cruise lines. Those who prefer the outdoors may want the marked cycling route that follows the riverbank, perfect for a one-hour ride between villages.

Ancenis Port Call at a Glance

ItemDetail
DockingRiver pontoon built for the Loire Princesse
Old town centre10-minute walk
CastleExterior and grounds only
Liré and the valleyAcross the suspension bridge, on foot or by bike
Currency and languageEuro; French

What the River Says

When the paddle wheels start churning the water again, Ancenis settles back into its quiet, peaceful border town rhythm. Travellers take away a rare image: a great river left free to roam, with its shifting islands and terns, and a small town that has spent a thousand years learning to live at the river's pace rather than trying to control it.

Frequently Asked Questions

At a purpose-built river pontoon, about ten minutes' walk from the old town. The facilities were designed for the Loire Princesse, the only cruise vessel built for this river.
Because the lower Loire has no dams at all. It shifts its sandbanks with every flood and sets its own water level for navigators. The Loire Princesse, driven by paddle wheels, was built for these shallow depths.
No, the interior is not open to visitors. The walk around the moat and grounds is open and shows a Renaissance residence grafted onto medieval towers, with fine views over the valley.
Founded in 984 by the dukes of Brittany, it guarded the river on the border between the duchy and the kingdom of France. The treaty signed here in 1468 sealed Francis II's submission to Louis XI, a prelude to Brittany joining the kingdom.
The town around Saint-Pierre church, the old Loire boatmen's quays, then a walk across the suspension bridge above the sandbanks. A tasting at one of the hillside estates rounds out the half day.
The poet was born at Liré, directly opposite on the Anjou bank. It was these slopes he had in mind when he wrote Happy the man who, like Ulysses, has made a fine voyage. The landscape he missed is still legible: flood meadows, poplars, slate steeples.
The Coteaux d'Ancenis produce a light gamay red and a sweet malvoisie that pairs with local cheeses. They remain little known; several nearby estates welcome travellers for tastings, often offered as a shore excursion.
Yes. A marked cycle route follows the riverbank and suits an hour's ride between two villages. The terrain is flat, which works for most passengers.
The river, its pale sandbanks and shifting islands, with Brittany on one side and Anjou on the other. Downstream, the medieval keep of Oudon still watches boats pass, as it did in the days of feudal tolls.
It is a regional call with no major monument to tour: the château stays closed and the town takes an hour to walk. Its appeal is the river itself, its terns and its islands, and the vineyards on the slopes. Travellers looking for spectacle will be disappointed; those looking for a slower pace rarely are.