Seen from the sea, Skiathos looks like a forest that decided to float. The pines run down to the beaches, the hills roll in shades of green, and the small white capital spreads out between two bays. This island in the Sporades, the most accessible in its archipelago, has built its reputation on some sixty beaches and an easygoing way of life that wins passengers over as soon as they step off the tender. Green and blue share the horizon in equal measure.

Landing in the heart of the action

Ships anchor offshore and tenders drop passengers right in town. The small capital then unfolds without transition: cobbled lanes, white houses with colourful shutters, cascading bougainvillea and terraces fragrant with Greek coffee. Facing the landing, the wooded islet of Bourtzi juts into the sea with the remains of a Venetian fortress; it's a few minutes' walk for a first view of the comings and goings of the boats.

In the footsteps of Papadiamantis

The modest house of Alexandros Papadiamantis, one of Greece's most beloved writers, is tucked away in a lane in the centre. Now a museum, it preserves the furniture, manuscripts and family icons of the man who told of 19th-century island life better than anyone. A bust of the writer also keeps watch not far from the old port. The visit takes only half an hour, but it lends unexpected depth to the walk: behind the shops and terraces, Skiathos remains the island of this discreet storyteller.

Koukounaries and the beach road

A single road serves the south coast, and the bus that runs along it is an institution: twenty-six numbered stops between town and Koukounaries, with frequent departures in season. At the end of the line, Koukounaries Beach stretches about 1,200 metres of pale sand in front of a protected pine forest that hides a lagoon. The natural shade of the pines, a rare privilege in Greece, explains its fame. Along the way, the stops serve other popular bays such as Troulos and Agia Paraskevi, letting you plan your afternoon according to the crowds. The full ride to the end of the line takes about thirty minutes.

Lalaria, the beach that has to be earned

Yet the most famous image of Skiathos can't be reached by any road. Lalaria, on the north coast, lines up its polished, milky-white pebbles at the foot of a cliff pierced by a natural arch, the Trypia Petra. It can only be reached by boat excursions departing from the old port, often combined with sea caves and the old fortified capital of Kastro, perched on its headland. Spaces go quickly on port call days; it's best to inquire as soon as you land.

A surprise for the curious

The airport runway, set between two bays east of town, has earned worldwide fame: planes skim the coastal road on landing, and onlookers gather behind the fence to watch them pass overhead. The free, good-natured show is half an hour's walk from the centre, or a few minutes by taxi.

Practical pointers

• Tenders to downtown; the whole heart of the island can be explored on foot.
• South coast bus: a single line, numbered stops, terminus at Koukounaries.
• Lalaria and Kastro accessible only by boat excursion.
• Currency: euro. Relaxed atmosphere: a swimsuit and walking shoes are all you need.

When it's time to re-embark, nightfall lights up the waterfront terraces and the pines turn dark blue. Skiathos leaves a simple memory: a day among a writer's pages, warm sand and the scent of resin, every hour of which you find yourself wanting to stretch out.