Eskifjordur Iceland

Iceland

Holmatindur drops nearly straight down into the dark waters of the fjord, its 985-metre silhouette reflected on the surface whenever the wind settles down. This is the mountain passengers see first as the ship enters Eskifjördur, an arm of the sea among Iceland's Eastfjords. At the foot of the slope, a fishing village stretches its colourful houses along a single road. About a thousand people live here, surrounded by scenery that seems almost too vast for so small a place.

A Village Born of Herring

Eskifjördur grew in the eighteenth century as a Danish trading post, then prospered thanks to the herring that once teemed in the waters of the east. From that era survives the Randulff House, an 1890 fishing shed left almost untouched, complete with its gear, boats, and inscriptions left by the crews. Today, visitors can sample fermented shark and dried fish here, prepared using traditional methods. The place is part museum, part tavern, and it captures the life of Icelandic fishermen a century ago better than any lecture could.

The local maritime museum rounds out the visit with its collections of tools, photographs, and objects tied to the sea. There's nothing flashy here, just traces of hard lives, carefully presented by a community proud of its past.

Stones and Hot Water

The region holds prized minerals, and the Sörensen collection displays a striking array of them: jasper, zeolites, and translucent stones gathered from the surrounding mountains. Geology enthusiasts can easily spend an hour here.

Another local pleasure: the outdoor pool heated with geothermal water. Soaking in 38-degree water while clouds cling to the peaks is one of Iceland's simplest and most memorable rituals. The pools face the mountains, and locals come here to trade the day's news, just as they do at pools all across the country.

Walking at the Foot of Holmatindur

Several trails start from the village or its outskirts. The shortest follow the shoreline to quiet waterfalls; the more demanding climb toward the shoulders of Holmatindur, from where the view takes in the whole fjord. Experienced hikers should aim for a midway viewpoint rather than the summit, out of reach within the time of a port stop. Along the way, you'll cross paths with sheep roaming free, tufts of cotton grass, and sometimes a reindeer come down from the highlands, this part of the country being the only place in Iceland where the species lives wild.

Toward the Vök Baths

Organized excursions often head to Egilsstadir, the main town in the region, about a 45-minute drive away. On the shore of Lake Urridavatn, the Vök Baths offer floating geothermal pools whose edges blend seamlessly into the open lake water. Visitors alternate between warm soaking, sauna, and a plunge into the cold water, depending on their nerve. Other tours follow the coast toward the neighbouring fjords, with their road tunnels and tiny villages clinging between sea and cliff.

Good to Know Before Going Ashore

• The village can be explored on foot in about thirty minutes; everything is concentrated along the main street.
• Bring windproof clothing, even in summer: the weather changes quickly in the fjords.
• Bring a swimsuit for the geothermal pool, towels can be rented on site.
• Shops are few; bank cards are accepted everywhere.

As the ship departs and re-enters the channel, Holmatindur still fills the whole field of view. The houses shrink, the village fades from sight, the mountain remains. Some stops leave behind a list of monuments; this one leaves behind a single, lasting image, and that may well be the more enduring of the two.