More than eight hundred languages are spoken in Papua New Guinea, a world record for a single country. This fact says everything about the human mosaic awaiting travellers in Port Moresby, a capital set between dry hills and the Coral Sea. Long a mere technical stop, the capital is gradually opening up to passing ships and is better prepared for them than you might think. The port call calls for a certain spirit of adventure and an organized framework, but it opens a window onto one of the most singular places on the planet, one that very few travellers can say they have set foot on.

A port call that is organized

Ships moor at the commercial wharf, very close to the historic district known simply as "Town." The port area remains a working zone, and the cruise lines supervise outings: shuttles and guided excursions are the norm here, a precaution that also simplifies the day's logistics. The main attractions can be reached in less than an hour by road, making it possible to combine two or three without rushing.

The nature park, showcase of a lost world

About twenty minutes from the port, the Port Moresby Nature Park gathers under its frangipani trees the wildlife the Papuan jungle hides so well: tree kangaroos with reddish fur, cassowaries with bluish casques and, above all, several species of birds of paradise whose courtship displays have fascinated naturalists for centuries. The shaded paths can be explored in an hour or two, among native orchids and aviaries filled with birdsong heard nowhere else; local guides gladly explain the ties between these animals and the cultures of the highlands. For many passengers, it is the only place they will ever see these creatures.

Masks, canoes and parliament

The National Museum and Art Gallery holds a remarkable collection: ceremonial masks from the Sepik River, war canoes, feather headdresses and shell money bear witness to traditions still alive in the provinces. A few minutes away, Parliament House surprises with its architecture inspired by the haus tambaran, spirit houses with carved façades; political modernity is housed in an ancestral form, a faithful image of the entire country.

From the seafront to the hills

In town, the Ela Beach promenade borders a long, shaded city beach, pleasant for a break between visits; a craft market is held there on some Saturdays, a chance to buy directly from artisans who have come from the provinces. More complete excursions head out to Bomana War Cemetery, about thirty minutes away, where more than 3,800 soldiers who fell during the Pacific campaign are buried; the rows of white headstones beneath tall tropical trees command a reverence that even large groups instinctively respect. Nature lovers will instead choose Varirata National Park, in the hills: after 45 minutes on a winding road, trails lead to lookouts from which the entire coast unfolds, and patient watchers sometimes spot the Raggiana bird of paradise, the country's emblem.

Preparing your day

Book excursions in advance through the ship, bring water and a hat, and keep local currency or small bills for crafts: the basketry and hand-woven bilum bags rank among the finest souvenirs in the Pacific. The heat remains intense all year round; morning visits are the most pleasant.

As the ship pulls away from the wharf, the tawny hills of the capital fade into the heat haze. You take away from Port Moresby more questions than answers, and that may be the finest gift a port call can give: having glimpsed a vast, complex world of which a few hours ashore have lifted only a corner of the veil.