Phu Quoc, Vietnam | Cruise Port Guide

The sun sets over the sea here, which, in Vietnam, is the exception: Phu Quoc is the only major destination in the country that faces west. Set in the Gulf of Thailand, closer to the Cambodian coast than to the Mekong Delta, Vietnam's largest island welcomes ships at anchor off Duong Dong, its main town, from where tenders reach the shore in a few minutes.

Duong Dong, between lighthouse and market

The heart of the island beats around the mouth of its river, crowded with blue fishing boats with an eye painted on the bow. On a rock jutting into the sea, the little Dinh Cau temple, half shrine and half lighthouse, has protected sailors for generations: you climb a short staircase to take in the comings and goings of the port. Steps away, the market overflows with glistening fish, dried squid, dragon fruit and fresh herbs, in perfectly organized chaos. In the evening, a night market takes over in the neighbouring streets, with grilled seafood in the spotlight.

Bai Truong, the long beach

South of town begins Bai Truong, the "long beach," which stretches its golden sand for kilometres along the west coast. Leaning coconut palms, thatched huts and lounge chairs share the shoreline, and the water, generally calm from November to March, invites easy swims. It is also the sunset beach: in the late afternoon, locals come to sit facing the horizon, a daily ritual that passengers in port can join with no reservation needed.

Sao, the white sand of the southeast

On the other side of the island, about forty minutes by road, Sao Beach unfolds a cove of fine white sand bordered by shallow turquoise waters. Swings planted in the water, colourful rowboats and seafood restaurants complete a setting that appears in most photographs of the island. The spot draws crowds, but you need only walk a few hundred metres to find some space again.

Pepper and fish sauce, the two treasures

Phu Quoc owes its culinary fame to two products. Its pepper, grown on poles in family plantations that you can visit freely, flavours kitchens all over Vietnam. Its nuoc mam, the fish sauce made by fermenting anchovies in huge wooden vats, enjoys a national reputation: several factories in Duong Dong open their doors to the curious, lingering smell and passionate explanations included. A sealed bottle makes the most local souvenir there is.

A still-green island

A large part of the island's territory falls within a national park covered in tropical forest, especially in the north. Shaded trails, streams and seasonal waterfalls offer a cool counterpoint to the beaches, and wildlife watchers look out for hornbills and macaques. Boat trips to the islets in the south, fringed with coral reefs, complete the picture: a mask and snorkel are enough to glide over coral gardens a few metres deep.

The last sunset

On the way back to the ship, the island unfurls its silhouette one last time: wooded hills, beaches edged with foam and kitchen smoke rising from the villages. Then the sun sinks into the gulf, exactly where your eyes expected it, and you understand why so many travellers remember Phu Quoc for a particular gentleness, made of pepper, salt and evening light.

Frequently Asked Questions

Ships anchor offshore in front of Duong Dong, the island's main town, and tenders reach the shore in a few minutes. There is no alongside berth for large vessels.
In the Gulf of Thailand, closer to the Cambodian coast than to the Mekong Delta. It is Vietnam's largest island, and the country's only major destination facing west — hence its sunsets over the sea.
Duong Dong and its beach are easily done: the Dinh Cau temple, the market, then Bai Truong, the long beach beginning south of town. Sao beach, a forty-minute drive away, needs a full half day.
It is a small half-shrine, half-lighthouse perched on a rock jutting into the sea at the mouth of the Duong Dong river. It has protected sailors for generations, and a short staircase leads to the view over the harbour.
It depends on your time. Bai Truong, the long beach, lines the west coast just south of Duong Dong and is minutes away. Sao beach, in the southeast, is prettier but requires about forty minutes by road.
It does draw a crowd, with its swings planted in the water and its seafood restaurants. Walking a few hundred metres along the cove is usually enough to find space.
The water is generally calm from November to March on the west coast, which makes swimming easy. The rest of the year, the monsoon stirs the gulf considerably more.
Pepper, grown on poles in family plantations open to visitors, and nuoc mam fish sauce, made by fermenting anchovies in huge wooden vats. Several Duong Dong factories open their doors, lingering smell included.
Yes. A large share of the island is national park covered in tropical forest, especially in the north: shaded trails, streams and seasonal waterfalls, with hornbills and macaques for the patient.
The Vietnamese dong and Vietnamese. The Duong Dong market and the night market are negotiated in small notes; English is used in tourist businesses, less so elsewhere.