Every evening at dusk, small silhouettes emerge from the surf and waddle up the beach toward their burrows. This unchanging ritual has made Phillip Island famous around the world: the island is home to the largest colony of little penguins on the planet. Ships drop anchor in Western Port Bay, about 140 kilometres south of Melbourne, and tenders drop their passengers at the Cowes jetty, the island's main town.

Cowes, an Australian seaside village

Landing puts visitors right at the centre of everything. Cowes's main street runs down to the jetty between cafés, surf shops and shaded terraces, and the beach stretches out on either side of the pier, pale sand and calm waters facing the mainland. Pelicans patrol near the anglers, families picnic under the Norfolk pines, and everything is done on foot in an Australian holiday atmosphere, relaxed right down to the greetings. Wildlife-watching outings also depart from the jetty, depending on the season and sea conditions.

Little penguins, the low-key stars

Standing about thirty centimetres tall, with slate-blue plumage, little penguins spend their days fishing offshore and return at nightfall to Summerland Beach, at the western tip of the island. Boardwalks and viewing stands built by the nature park let you watch their parade without disturbing them, with dimmed lighting and no flash photography. One detail matters for cruise passengers: the parade takes place at dusk, so it is only accessible if the ship stays at anchor into the evening or as part of an excursion planned for that purpose.

The Nobbies and Seal Rocks

The same western tip offers a spectacle you can enjoy in broad daylight. At the Nobbies, boardwalks wind along the top of cliffs battered by the swell of Bass Strait, among gull colonies and carpets of silvery succulents. Offshore, the reefs of Seal Rocks are home to the largest fur seal colony in Australia: thousands of animals lounge there, visible through binoculars or thanks to the interpretive centre's cameras. The constant wind is part of the place.

Koalas in the eucalyptus

In the centre of the island, the koala conservation reserve offers one of the best chances in Victoria to observe these marsupials in their habitat. Elevated boardwalks take visitors up to branch level, where koalas doze, wedged into the forks of the eucalyptus trees. Wallabies and echidnas also frequent the trails, especially late in the day. Rural history buffs will continue to Churchill Island, linked by a bridge, where a heritage farm keeps up sheep shearing and sheepdog demonstrations overlooking the bay.

Island flavours

The island feeds its visitors well: fish and chips facing the jetty, oysters and mussels from the region, artisanal ice cream and coffee worthy of Melbourne. Local cheese makers and chocolatiers offer tastings and shops, enough to put together a basket of edible souvenirs before heading back on board.

What you take with you

Boarding the tender again, many passengers scan the surface one last time, hoping for a seal's flipper or the heavy flight of a pelican. Phillip Island practises a rare kind of tourism: one that puts wildlife first and asks humans to adapt. The small blue silhouettes that waddle up the beach every evening have proved it for decades, and that simple fact gives the port call a value that never wears off.