Before Berlin, there was Brandenburg. The city that gave its name to an entire region, and to Germany's most famous gate, developed on the islands of the Havel a full century before its neighbour rose out of the marshland. River cruise ships that thread their way in through the urban canal dock here in one of the country's historic cradles, one that has remained surprisingly under the radar despite more than eight and a half centuries of documented history.

Three Towns in One

Brandenburg an der Havel was built as three long-rival settlements: the cathedral island, the Altstadt on one bank, the Neustadt on the other. Each had its own churches, its own walls, its own pride; they only merged in 1715, after centuries of literal bell-tower rivalries. That history can still be read on the ground, and it's one of the pleasures of this port call to move from one district to another by crossing the river's branches on foot, over bridges that each offer their own view of the water.

The Cathedral, Mother of the March

On its island, the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, founded in 1165, is nicknamed the "mother of the churches of the March." Gothic brick gradually covered over the original Romanesque basilica, and the interior holds two highlights: the crypt, the oldest part of the building, and the Wagner baroque organ, installed in 1725, one of the most treasured period instruments in Germany. When an organist is rehearsing, the sound fills the brick nave, and there's nothing to do but sit down and listen.

Towers, Walls and Roland

The city preserves a rare set of medieval fortifications: several massive gate towers still punctuate the line of the old ramparts, including the Steintorturm on the Neustadt side and the Plauer Torturm on the Altstadt side. In front of the town hall stands a statue of Roland, that stone knight the trading cities of northern Germany once erected as a symbol of their freedoms. Between these landmarks, the streets blend restored façades, quiet passageways and squares where terraces open up on fine days.

The Havel, a Guiding Thread

Water is never far away here: the river widens into a string of lakes all around the city, and the banks are perfect for walking. A stroll along the urban canal is enough to understand why pleasure boats are everywhere; the region holds some of the most extensive inland waterways in Germany. Local excursions often include a tour of the lakes; from a ship's deck, it becomes clear just how much this city was built with the river rather than against it.

Ideas for a Walking Tour

  • An hour and a half: the Dominsel and its cathedral-quarter lanes.
  • Two and a half hours: add the Altstadt, the Roland statue and a gate tower.
  • Half a day: round it out with a walk along the Havel and a coffee by the water.

What the City Whispers as You Leave

Brandenburg doesn't play in the same media league as its Berlin neighbour, and it seems perfectly at ease with that. You leave with quiet images: red brick reflected in the water, an organ echoing, swans passing beneath a bridge, and the quiet satisfaction of having seen the source before the river. The ship continues on through the canal, the cathedral spire lingers a moment above the rooftops, and you find yourself thinking that beginnings, in this case the beginning of an entire region, often carry exactly this kind of modesty.

Frequently Asked Questions

River cruise vessels thread through the town canal and tie up in the heart of the city, which was built on the islands of the Havel. The historic centre and the cathedral island are both reachable on foot.
Yes. The town grew on the Havel islands a good century before its neighbour rose out of the marshes. It gave its name to an entire region and to Germany's most famous gate, while remaining surprisingly low-key despite more than eight and a half centuries of documented history.
Because it grew in three long-rival parts: the cathedral island, the Altstadt on one bank, the Neustadt on the other. Each had its own churches, walls and pride; they merged only in 1715, after centuries of parish rivalry in the most literal sense.
Founded in 1165 and nicknamed the mother of the churches of the March, it holds two high points: the crypt, the oldest part of the building, and the baroque Wagner organ installed in 1725, one of the most valuable period instruments in Germany. When an organist rehearses, the sound fills the brick nave and the only thing to do is sit down and listen.
A stone knight standing before the town hall. Merchant cities in northern Germany raised these figures as symbols of their municipal liberties. It is one of the landmarks not to miss between the gate towers and the streets of the centre.
Yes, an unusually complete set. Several massive gate towers still punctuate the line of the old walls, including the Steintorturm on the Neustadt side and the Plauer Torturm on the Altstadt side. Between these landmarks the streets mix restored facades, quiet passageways and squares where terraces appear in fine weather.
An hour and a half: the Dominsel and its cathedral lanes. Two and a half hours: add the Altstadt, the Roland and a gate tower. Half a day: finish with the Havel banks and a coffee by the water.
Walk along the town canal, quite simply. The Havel widens into a chain of lakes around the city and the banks invite strolling. The region has some of the largest inland waters in Germany, which explains the pleasure boats everywhere. Local excursions often include a lake tour.
No, they are two different things. The Brandenburg Gate is in Berlin and takes its name from the road that led toward this city. Brandenburg an der Havel is a town in its own right, about sixty kilometres west of the capital.
The euro and German. Outside the tourist sites, English is less widespread than in Berlin, and a number of shops prefer cash. A few euros in your pocket will make the day easier.