Positano does not spread out: it climbs. From the ship's deck, the village seems suspended from the cliff, a cascade of white, pink and saffron houses tumbling down toward a beach of grey pebbles. At its centre gleams the yellow, green and blue majolica dome of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, a landmark for every sailor on the Amalfi Coast. John Steinbeck, passing through in 1953, wrote that the place did not quite seem real while you were there. The port call lets you check for yourself.

Arriving by sea, as one should

Ships anchor offshore and tenders come alongside the landing at the Spiaggia Grande, the main beach. It is the best possible arrival: the whole village unfolds facing the sea during the crossing. Ashore, everything is done on foot, accepting one simple rule: here, every move involves steps. Comfortable shoes are a must, but the efforts are counted in minutes and the rewards in panoramas.

Santa Maria Assunta and its Black Madonna

A stone's throw from the shore, the Church of Santa Maria Assunta houses a Byzantine icon of the Black Madonna, to which local legend attributes the very founding of the village: the painting, carried by boat, is said to have demanded to be landed here. Beneath the tiled dome, the neoclassical interior surprises with its brightness. As you leave, look up: the bell tower and the bougainvillea make up the most photographed scene on the Amalfi Coast.

Via dei Mulini and the workshops

The street climbing from the waterfront, Via dei Mulini, concentrates what gives Positano its reputation for craftsmanship: leather sandals sewn to order, light linen dresses inherited from the "moda Positano" of the 1960s, painted ceramics and lemons in every form, from limoncello to soaps. Prices are not very negotiable, but window-shopping under the pergolas remains a free pleasure.

Fornillo, the regulars' beach

From the landing, a path clinging to the cliff skirts the watchtower and reaches Fornillo beach in about ten minutes, quieter than its big neighbour. Grey pebbles, deep water of a dense blue and a few beach clubs: this is the place to catch your breath between two flights of stairs, fresh lemonade in hand. The path itself is worth the trip: between two groves, it offers framed views of the cascading rooftops.

A break at the table

The terraces facing the sea serve the coast's simple cuisine: spaghetti with clams, fish of the day, tomatoes and mozzarella. For dessert, look for delizia al limone, a dome of sponge cake coated in lemon cream, born on this coast and now its sweet emblem. A strong espresso, and the stairs suddenly seem less steep.

Taking in the heights

The upper lanes of the village, toward the Chiesa Nuova, offer plunging views of the dome and the bay, fifteen or twenty minutes uphill. Seasoned hikers will hear about the Path of the Gods, which runs along the ridges far above the waves; the full route, however, requires half a day and good planning, best kept for long port calls or guided excursions.

To take home in your luggage

• A pair of handmade sandals, fitted in the shop in a few minutes
• Artisanal limoncello or candied lemon peel
• A painted ceramic with citrus motifs, the coast's specialty

Back to the ship

From the departing tender, the village slowly rises back into the frame: first the shore, then the glazed dome, and finally the last houses clinging beneath the mountain. Steinbeck was right: it is once you have left that Positano becomes entirely real, and that you start to miss it.