On a clear day, a wall of 3,000-metre peaks rises straight behind the bay: the Tateyama range, still snow-capped for much of the year, seems to spring directly from the Sea of Japan. This face-off between the Japanese Alps and the deep water gives its character to Toyama, a prefectural capital facing a bay so rich in fish that the Japanese call it the country's "natural fish tank". The call blends contemporary art, peaceful canals and an old merchants' quarter.

From the dock to the centre

Ships use the Fushiki-Toyama port complex, whose berths are spread around the harbour. Depending on the location, downtown is 15 to 25 km away, about thirty minutes by road; cruise lines provide shuttles, and taxis complete the options. Those who dock at the Toyama Shinko basin can see from the gangway the white masts of the Kaiwo Maru, a large training sailing ship preserved in a waterfront park, a first nod to the local maritime tradition.

A glass palace by Kengo Kuma

In town, the surprise comes from a building with granite, glass and aluminum façades: the Kirari, designed by architect Kengo Kuma. Inside, slats of local wood spiral up toward the glass roof, enveloping the Toyama Glass Art Museum. The collections gather contemporary pieces from around the world, including spectacular installations by American artist Dale Chihuly. The visit easily combines with the neighbouring castle park, where a rebuilt keep and a Japanese garden recall the city's feudal past.

The Fugan Canal and its lock

A few minutes away by tram, Kansui Park borders the basin where the Fugan Canal begins. Picnicking families, joggers and lawns sloping gently down to the water: the spot sums up the local way of life. Depending on the season, small boats travel down to the sea through the Nakajima Lock, a rare experience in Japan: the chamber slowly empties or fills around the boat, as on European canals. The trip ends at Iwase, the city's former outer harbour.

Iwase, memory of the kitamaebune

In the nineteenth century, the kitamaebune, merchant ships that plied the coast of the Sea of Japan, made Iwase's fortune. The main street still lines up the shipowners' mansions: dark wooden façades, fine lattices and stone storehouses. Some houses can be visited, while others house artisans' workshops, sake breweries or small cafés. The district can also be reached directly from downtown on the port tram line, handy for heading back to the shuttle at the end of the day.

The bay's pantry

You can't leave without tasting it. The white shrimp, translucent and sweet, is enjoyed raw on a bed of rice or fried as tempura. In spring, the firefly squid lights up the tables. And masuzushi, trout sushi pressed in a round box lined with bamboo leaves, travels perfectly: many passengers slip one into their bag before reboarding. Mountain lovers will also find organized excursions to the Kurobe Gorge or the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route, as long as they devote the whole day to it.

Port call highlights

On the way back, many eyes turn east one last time, hoping for a clear sky over the Tateyama ridges. When the range deigns to show itself above the bay, the image stays etched in memory: a discreet city set between 3,000-metre mountains and one of the most generous seas in Japan. That is the memory you take with you as the lines are cast off.