Utrecht doesn't touch the sea, and yet ships call here. The river boats that ply the Netherlands moor along the Amsterdam-Rhine Canal, on the eastern edge of the city, about thirty minutes' walk from the centre depending on the exact berth. Many cruise lines offer a shuttle or motorcoach transfer. The trip is well worth it: behind its student-town airs, Utrecht hides one of the best-preserved medieval centres in the country, organized around a canal unlike any other.

The Oudegracht and its two-level quays

The old canal, the Oudegracht, runs through the centre from north to south, and its special feature is obvious at first glance. The quays are set on two levels: the street above, and below, at water level, a second promenade lined with vaulted cellars dug beneath the houses. In the Middle Ages, merchants unloaded their goods straight from the barges into these underground warehouses. Today, these same cellars house cafés, restaurants and independent shops. Sitting on a terrace at water level, beneath the arches of the bridges, remains the simplest and most memorable pleasure here.

The tower that dominates everything

At 112 metres high, the Dom Tower remains the tallest church tower in the Netherlands. Completed in 1382, it has watched over the city for more than six centuries and serves as a constant landmark for walkers: wherever you are, just look up to find your way. The climb, for strong legs only, rewards the effort with a panorama that reaches, on a clear day, all the way to Amsterdam. At its foot, Dom Square and the cloister garden offer a peaceful break between discoveries, beneath the Gothic arcades.

A city to visit from the water

To complement the walk, tour boats offer one-hour circuits on the canals of the centre. The change of perspective transforms everything, and departures are spread throughout the day, which makes planning easy: bridges glide by overhead, the merchants' cellars appear at water level and the setting reveals angles invisible from the street. Here are the main ways to explore the centre depending on the time available.

Museums and little streets

Utrecht takes good care of its curiosities. The Speelklok Museum, set in a former church, brings to life a collection of mechanical musical instruments, from delicate music boxes to imposing street organs, in demonstrations that delight adults and children alike. Illustration lovers will also recognize the city of Dick Bruna, the creator of the famous rabbit Miffy, the town's beloved child. Between visits, the lanes around Dom Square line up bookshops, designer boutiques and cafés where university students set the tone.

Before heading back to the boat

A call in Utrecht is like an urban interlude in a river itinerary often devoted to villages and windmills. It combines the grandeur of an exceptional religious heritage with the lightness of a student city that lives outdoors. Heading back up the gangway, you keep in mind this singular image: terraces set up where medieval barges once docked, proof that the best urban ideas stand the test of time.