An almost perfect cone, capped with snow for part of the year, watches over this Tasman Sea coast: Mount Taranaki, 2,518 metres, a dormant volcano whose silhouette recalls Japan's Mount Fuji. New Plymouth lives at its feet, between ocean and pastures, and the entire port call unfolds under its gaze. Ships stop at Port Taranaki, about three kilometres from the centre; a shuttle drops passengers off on the waterfront, at the foot of the Puke Ariki museum.

The Wind Wand and the waterfront

The first landmark is impossible to miss: a 45-metre red rod that sways gently in the wind, a kinetic sculpture conceived by artist Len Lye, a native son who became a figure of modern art. It marks the start of the coastal promenade, the backbone of the city. The Puke Ariki museum, just behind it, intelligently combines Māori collections, settler history and exhibitions on the volcano; it is the ideal place to understand the region before exploring it. The more athletic will notice, right above the port facilities, Paritutu Rock: a steep trail, fitted with a chain, reaches the summit and reveals the Sugar Loaf Islands, refuges for seabirds and fur seals set at the mouth of the harbour.

The Coastal Walkway and Te Rewa Rewa Bridge

The Coastal Walkway unrolls its thirteen kilometres right along the ocean, popular with walkers, cyclists and Sunday strollers. Its masterpiece lies at the eastern end: Te Rewa Rewa Bridge, a white arch resembling a breaking wave or a whale skeleton, designed to frame Mount Taranaki precisely when you cross it along the right axis. On a clear day, the photo is irresistible: the volcano sitting exactly beneath the arch, as if in a viewfinder.

Pukekura, the city's great garden

About a twenty-minute walk from the waterfront, Pukekura Park spreads its 52 hectares of small valleys: lakes crossed by rowboats, tree ferns, greenhouses, shady paths and aviaries. Its rhododendrons are the pride of the region, and a tea house by the water allows for a very British break. In summer, a night festival lights up the valleys and waterfalls with thousands of coloured lights, a very popular family event. You quickly understand why residents consider this park their shared living room; strolling there for an hour is enough to take the pulse of the gentle local way of life.

Art as a bonus

New Plymouth cultivates a surprising artistic density for its size. The Govett-Brewster Art Gallery and the Len Lye Centre, recognizable by their undulating stainless-steel façade that reflects the sky like a funhouse mirror, display contemporary art and the sculptor's kinetic works. The downtown streets add colourful murals, cafés that roast on site and independent shops; together they give the city a creative energy that surprises many a visitor.

Under the volcano's gaze

Some excursions head to the foothills of Egmont National Park, where short trails cross a mossy forest to viewpoints over the cone; others focus on gardens and farms in the surrounding countryside. Whatever you choose, Taranaki always reappears between two clouds, and it is its image you keep when heading back out to sea: that of a solitary mountain that gives its name, its water and its character to an entire region. Few mid-sized cities have such a backdrop; this one has the wisdom to enjoy it without putting on airs.