The red bell tower appears first, planted like a 90-metre arrow above the plain. Then come the shady quays of the Drava, the suspension bridge reserved for pedestrians and, downstream, the bastions of a Baroque citadel. Osijek, Croatia's fourth-largest city and the capital of Slavonia, welcomes river boats just a few kilometres from where the Drava joins the Danube. The port call unfolds almost entirely on foot, between two centuries of Austro-Hungarian architecture and a river that shapes all of local life.

Tvrđa, the Habsburg citadel

Let us start in the east of the city, home to the best-preserved Baroque ensemble in the country. Built in the early 18th century to seal off the border against the Ottoman Empire, the Tvrđa fortress has kept its barracks, monumental gates and cobbled parade ground. In the centre, the Holy Trinity column, erected in 1730 after a plague epidemic, watches over the ochre façades and café terraces. The Museum of Slavonia, housed in the former town hall, displays the region's archaeological finds, from prehistory to the Romans of Mursa, Osijek's ancient forerunner. The parade ground often hosts craft markets and festivals in season. At the end of the day, students take over, and the old garrison enjoys a second youth.

The promenade along the Drava

From Tvrđa to the modern centre, the most pleasant route follows the promenada, the path running along the right bank for several kilometres. Anglers, cyclists and families: all of Osijek gathers there, especially at sunset, when the low light sets the river's surface ablaze and the floating cafés moored to the bank switch on their string lights. Halfway along, a pedestrian suspension bridge crosses the river in a single span toward the green banks of Baranja. Crossing it takes five minutes and offers the finest panorama of the rooftops, the water and the steeples. Renting a bike lets you extend the ride along the banks, in either direction.

On the new town side

The modern part is organized around Ante Starčević Square, dominated by the Co-Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul. This red brick Gothic Revival church, completed in 1898, has one of the tallest bell towers in the country; its interior surprises with its colourful frescoes. Nearby, Europska Avenue lines up a remarkable series of Art Nouveau houses, a legacy of the pre-1914 bourgeoisie; their ornate façades, recently restored, form one of the finest Secession ensembles outside Vienna and Budapest. The streetcar, here since 1884, rings its bell between the plane trees. The terraces serve strong Viennese-style coffee, and the local pastry shops deserve a quarter of an hour of your time.

Flavours of Slavonia

The local table is the most renowned in eastern Croatia. Fiš paprikaš, a river fish stew with paprika, simmers here according to the rules of the art, served with homemade noodles. Kulen, a spicy sausage that dries for months, is enjoyed with fresh cheese and pickles. Graševina and traminac from the neighbouring hillsides complete the picture. Several excursions add Kopački Rit Nature Park to the port call, about twenty minutes away by road, where boardwalks and boats venture into a vast marsh teeming with birds.

Departure time

As the boat pulls away, everything comes down once again to a few verticals: the red bell tower, the bastions and the taut line of the pedestrian bridge. Osijek appears on no list of major tourist capitals, and that is precisely what makes it so valuable. You walked here without crowds, ate without artifice and crossed three eras in an afternoon. What remains, as you follow the water again, is the impression of having been welcomed rather than having visited.