Two forces pull this Japanese port call in opposite directions: a four-century-old dance and some of the most powerful whirlpools in the world. Tokushima, capital of the prefecture of the same name on the island of Shikoku, welcomes ships at the port of Komatsushima, about ten kilometres from the centre. Cruise line shuttles and taxis cover the distance in about twenty minutes, and the day then revolves around a pleasant choice: culture in the city, the raging sea to the north, or a bit of both.

The Awa dance

Every August, more than a million people converge on Tokushima for the Awa Odori, the largest of Japan's Obon dance festivals. The rest of the year, the Awa Odori Kaikan lets you experience the event on a smaller scale: troupes perform regularly on stage, explain the moves and invite spectators to try a few steps, and a museum traces the history of this dance fever born in the days of the feudal lords. Performances last under an hour, a format that fits easily into a day in port. The moves seem simple, two beats, arms raised, and yet each school adds its own signature. It's hard to leave without humming the rhythm of the shamisen.

Mount Bizan, the city's balcony

From the fifth floor of the same building, a ropeway climbs to the summit of Mount Bizan, Tokushima's emblematic hill. In a few minutes, the cabin drops passengers at a lookout that takes in the rooftops, the Yoshino River delta and, on clear days, the inland sea as far as the distant mountains. A walking path circles the summit among the pines, and those who enjoy walking can head back down on foot. It's the ideal spot to understand the geography of the call before moving on.

The Naruto whirlpools

In the north of the prefecture, the Naruto Strait separates Shikoku from Awaji Island. Twice a day, the tide forces huge volumes of water through a narrow passage, creating whirlpools that form, swirl and dissolve before visitors' eyes. Sightseeing boats approach the phenomenon as closely as possible, while the Uzu-no-michi walkway, built beneath the deck of the great Ōnaruto Bridge, lets you watch them through glass floors suspended 45 metres above the water. The intensity varies with the tides: excursions are timed for the strongest hours, announced in advance. A sweater comes in handy, as the wind often blows over the strait, even in midsummer.

Between two outings

Between shuttles, the heart of the city lends itself to an unplanned stroll: landscaped banks along the waterways that criss-cross the city, shopping arcades and small restaurants where you can taste the local ramen in dark broth, topped with thin slices of simmered pork. Garden lovers will also find, at the foot of Mount Bizan, a few peaceful temples and shady paths that offer a break from the crowds.

Port call highlights

At the end of the day, the images echo each other strangely: dancers spinning on stage, waters spinning in the strait. Tokushima has always cultivated this double movement, between human celebration and natural spectacle. You return on board feeling you have seen two wonders for the price of a single port call, with a lingering desire to attend the real August festival one day.