The bay opens like an amphitheatre: pine-covered mountains descend on all sides toward an enclosed body of water, so sheltered that the Ottomans once assembled their fleets here before setting course for Rhodes. Marmaris sits at the back of this natural theatre, between the Aegean and the Mediterranean, and the cruise pier almost touches the heart of the resort.

A Direct Arrival

Ships moor at the terminal next to the large marina, one of the liveliest on the Turkish coast. The waterfront promenade, which runs along Netsel Marina, one of the largest in the country, starts right from the landing: in about twenty minutes of leisurely walking, among palm trees, terraces and shop windows, you reach the old town. Dolmuş, the shared minibuses typical of the country, can cover the trip for a few Turkish lira if the heat discourages walking.

Suleiman's Castle

The old core clings to a hill above the port. The fortress crowning it was rebuilt in 1522 on the orders of Suleiman the Magnificent, at the time of his campaign against Rhodes; it now houses a small museum, and its ramparts offer the finest view over the bay, rooftops and masts. A local legend claims the very name of the resort comes from a word the sultan uttered in anger at his architect; locals still gladly tell the tale, proof that history here loves a good quip. All around, the cobbled lanes of the old quarter line up white houses, bougainvillea and artisans' shops, the last remnant of the fishing village Marmaris was before the tourism boom.

The Art of the Bazaar

Heading back down toward the port, the large covered bazaar unfolds its labyrinth: leather, ceramics, lanterns, pyramids of spices, Turkish delight you can taste before buying, while the muezzin's call mingles with the vendors' patter. Bargaining is part of the game and is done with a smile, over a complimentary glass of tea; carpets, for their part, are negotiated unhurriedly, tea after tea. Those who prefer flavours to shopping will look for the region's pine honey, renowned throughout the country, or sit down to mezze facing the boats.

The Water as a Playground

The water remains the area's greatest asset. Water taxis reach the beaches on the opposite shore, a local way of combining a swim with the ride, and excursions criss-cross the coves, between pine forests and beaches accessible only by sea; the neighbouring resort of İçmeler lines up its sand a few kilometres away. The most curious will head to the wild peninsula that closes off the horizon to the south, where the road winds between mountains and panoramic views. Finally, a traditional hammam lets you end your stop the Ottoman way, with steam, a horsehair mitt scrub and a massage. In midsummer, it is best to schedule the castle and bazaar in the morning and save the water for the hottest hours.

Day Essentials

• Cruise terminal close to the centre: old town about twenty minutes away on foot or by dolmuş.
• Castle museum and old quarter grouped on the hill above the port.
• Large covered bazaar between the waterfront and the old town.
• Boat excursions to the coves, İçmeler beaches a short distance away.

Leaving the Amphitheatre

As the ship passes through the channel, the pines slowly climb back up the slopes and the town shrinks to a pale line between two greens. A scent of tea and spices still lingers in your clothes, and you understand why sailors of every era have loved coming to shelter here: some bays seem made to hold on to boats, and a little bit to those who sail them too.