Ghent Belgium

Belgium

Two rivers meet at the heart of Ghent: the Leie and the Scheldt, whose meeting gave birth to one of medieval Europe's most powerful cities. It is precisely at this confluence that river cruise boats moor, at Portus Ganda basin, a ten-minute walk from the historic centre. Other vessels use the port basin quays, a little further north. Either way, the Flemish city reveals itself quickly, and on foot: here is a port call that demands neither coach nor complicated programme.

Heading toward the centre, 19th-century façades gradually give way to stepped gables, and water never quite leaves your line of sight. Ghent grew on its canals, enriched by cloth and grain, to the point of rivalling Paris in population.

The Counts' Castle

The natural first stop: the Gravensteen, a fortress of the Counts of Flanders set squarely in the city, moat and all. Its 12th-century crenellated walls shelter a collection of weapons and instruments of justice that makes visitors shudder, while the rampart walk offers a plunging view over the rooftops and turrets of the centre. Few European cities have preserved such a stronghold steps from their cafés.

Graslei and Korenlei, Quays of a Thousand Reflections

Following the Leie southward, you emerge onto the most emblematic duo of the place: Graslei and Korenlei, two facing quays where old guild houses mirror themselves in the water. Grain merchants, bargemen and grain measurers once had their seats here; today students and travellers share the waterside steps, cone of fries or local beer in hand. Late in the day, when façades light up and double in the black water, the scene gains yet more intensity. Saint Michael's Bridge, at the far end, offers the classic viewpoint of the city's three aligned towers: Saint Nicholas, the Belfry and the Cathedral.

The Mystic Lamb

Saint Bavo's Cathedral preserves one of the continent's major artistic treasures: the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb polyptych, painted by the Van Eyck brothers in 1432. Stolen, dismembered, hidden and restored over centuries, the altarpiece fascinates through the precision of its detail and the recovered brilliance of its colours. Visiting the choir and crypt completes this powerful moment of the port call. Just across, the UNESCO-listed Belfry climbs to 91 metres; its gilded dragon serves as weather vane and symbol of Ghent's pride.

Patershol and Flemish Pleasures

Behind the castle, the Patershol district interweaves its cobbled alleys, former weavers' houses now renowned restaurants and small shops. Nearby, an entire alley given over to graffiti artists changes face each week, a wink from a student city that refuses to stand still. It is the perfect spot to taste waterzooi, a creamy stew born right here, or cuberdons, those violet cones with raspberry flavour sold at market stalls. A one-hour cruise on the canals, departing from the centre quays, lets you observe the city at water level, an angle from which it reveals its oldest secrets.

The return to Portus Ganda follows the river, as evening light sets the gables ablaze. You leave Ghent with the feeling of having crossed a city that is no mere backdrop: vivacious, rebellious, student-spirited, it carries its eight centuries with disarming ease. Many passengers rank it, boarding again, among their itinerary's revelations.