Arica Chile

Chile

It almost never rains here. Arica sits at one of the most arid points on the planet, where the Atacama Desert runs straight down into the Pacific, and yet the city carries a gentle feel: Chileans call it "the city of eternal spring" for its stable, mild climate. From the deck, the eye is drawn first to a brown headland that drops sharply into the sea. That rock alone tells a good part of the country's history.

The Morro, Sentinel of the City

Standing about a hundred metres tall, the Morro de Arica towers over the rooftops and the harbour. It was here, in 1880, that one of the decisive battles of the War of the Pacific was fought, a battle that shifted the region from Peru to Chile. A trail and a road climb to the summit, where a huge Chilean flag flies. The climb takes some effort under the sun, but the reward is worth it: the coastline unfolds in both directions, fishing boats trace white lines across the water, and the city spreads out between the ocean and the ochre hills.

A Cathedral Designed by Eiffel

At the foot of the headland, the downtown area is easy to explore on foot. San Marcos Cathedral is an immediate surprise: this iron church, designed by Gustave Eiffel's workshops and prefabricated in France, was inaugurated in 1876 after an earthquake destroyed the previous building. Its painted metal panels give it a light, almost lace-like appearance. Just steps away, the former customs house, also prefabricated in France around the same time, now houses a cultural centre. All around, the pedestrian street 21 de Mayo lines up cafés, juice stands and shops, with that easygoing bustle typical of northern Chilean towns, where no one seems to be in a hurry.

The World's Oldest Mummies

About twelve kilometres from downtown, the Azapa Valley traces a green ribbon through the desert. Olives grown here are prized across the country, and the valley also holds a scientific treasure: the San Miguel de Azapa Archaeological Museum displays mummies from the Chinchorro culture, prepared more than seven thousand years ago, well before those of ancient Egypt. Their faces, covered in black or red clay and strangely peaceful, rank among the oldest funerary remains ever discovered. The round trip by taxi is easy to manage within a port call.

Beaches and Waterfront

The coastline south of the headland lines up dark sand beaches, including El Laucho and La Lisera, popular with local families. The water stays cool, thanks to the Humboldt Current, but watching pelicans dive near the rocks is worth the walk on its own. Farther north, the long stretch of Chinchorro Beach draws walkers and beginner surfers, and the smell of grilled fish drifts around the family-run restaurants along the shore. Near the fishing port, sea lions compete for scraps from the fish auction under the watchful eyes of the regulars.

Arica Port Call at a Glance

Late in the day, as the light rakes across the desert and the cliff glows softly, Arica reveals its true nature: a border city where fishers, caravan traders and olive growers have crossed paths for thousands of years. Passengers head back on board with the sense of having touched a different Chile, older and drier, one that makes you want to follow the road up to the high plateau someday.