Its name comes from the sandstone reef that runs along the shore and breaks the Atlantic swell: Recife, capital of Pernambuco, was built on water, between rivers, inlets and countless bridges. Ships dock at the commercial port, on the edge of the historic district of Recife Antigo; since walking is not allowed in the port area, a shuttle takes passengers to the gates of the old quarter, just a few minutes away.

Marco Zero, the starting point

Marco Zero Square marks the city's kilometre zero and the symbolic heart of Pernambuco. On the ground, a huge compass rose designed by the painter Cícero Dias; facing the sea, the sculptures of the open-air park you can see on the reef. The square's terraces serve ice-cold coconut water to help you cope with the heat, while street vendors offer straw hats and miniature frevo umbrellas, souvenirs of the local carnival.

Rua do Bom Jesus and the first synagogue in the Americas

Steps away, Rua do Bom Jesus lines up its restored pastel façades, among the most photographed in Brazil. It was on this street that the Jewish community founded, in the 17th century under Dutch occupation, the Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue, the very first in the Americas. The building, now a museum, tells this little-known chapter: when the Portuguese retook the city, part of the community went into exile in a small northern settlement called New Amsterdam, the future New York.

Towers, bridges and markets

The Malakoff Tower, a former observatory resembling an oriental fortress, guards the entrance to the district. Close by, the Paço do Frevo devotes its floors to the lightning-fast dance of the local carnival, inscribed on the Intangible Cultural Heritage list: multicoloured umbrellas, sequined costumes and frenzied dance lessons for those who dare to give it a try. Heading inland, bridges span the Capibaribe River and lead to the popular markets, packed with lace, illustrated cordel booklets and clay figurines in the style of Mestre Vitalino. Pernambuco's crafts are among the richest in the country; the São José Market, a 19th-century iron hall, offers a noisy, colourful sampling.

Olinda, the UNESCO-listed neighbour

About seven kilometres away, or twenty to thirty minutes by road, Olinda unfolds its cobblestone lanes on a hill facing the ocean. Founded in 1535 and a World Heritage Site, the little town lines up Baroque churches, convents and brightly coloured houses beneath the mango trees, while tapioca vendors push their carts up the slopes. From Alto da Sé, the panorama takes in Olinda's red roofs and, in the distance, Recife's skyline: four centuries of Brazilian history in a single glance. Artists' studios and the makers of the carnival's giant puppets open their doors to the curious; the famous bonecos, several metres tall, await their next parade in a gallery devoted entirely to them.

Flavours of the Nordeste

Between visits, the regional cuisine demands its due: tapioca filled with coalho cheese, black bean caldinho, cashew or acerola juice. Restaurants in the old quarter also serve shrimp moqueca in its broth of coconut milk and dendê oil.

Back by the reef

The five o'clock light gilds the façades of Bom Jesus while fishers reel in their lines on the reef that gave the city its name. Recife proves to be a rich port call, where every bridge crossed opens onto a different era. You return on board with images of frevo, azulejos and giant puppets, and the firm intention of one day giving this coast the time it deserves.