Between June and November, sometimes all you have to do is look from the deck: a white blow rises from the gulf, then a black tail slowly tips beneath the surface. Puerto Madryn, on the Atlantic coast of Argentine Patagonia, is one of the few places in the world where southern right whales come to give birth within sight of a town. Ships dock at the Piedra Buena pier; the centre can be reached on foot in about fifteen minutes along the bay.

A town born of a Welsh sailing ship

In 1865, a hundred and fifty Welsh settlers landed on this arid shore of the Golfo Nuevo, seeking a land where they could preserve their language. Their story shaped the entire neighbouring Chubut River valley: in Gaiman and Trelew, an hour away by road, brick chapels and tea houses keep alive the Welsh language and buttery scones, and many street names can still be read in both languages. In town, a monument facing the sea honours this remarkable saga, one of the most endearing in the history of immigration to Argentina.

Valdés, the ark of Patagonia

The day's great excursion leads to the Valdés Peninsula, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, reached after a good hour's drive to the north — allow a full day to explore it. This stretch of steppe surrounded by two gulfs concentrates exceptional marine wildlife: elephant seals sprawled on the pebble beaches, sea lions, Magellanic penguins in season, guanacos and maras in the scrub and, depending on the month, orcas patrolling off the points. From June to December, boat trips from Puerto Pirámides approach the right whales at a respectful distance — a moment many travellers rank among the most powerful of their lives.

On foot from the pier

Without an excursion, the town itself offers a pleasant half-day. The coastal promenade follows the bay for several kilometres, dotted with beaches where residents walk at low tide and the bravest swim in the southern summer. At the southern end, the Ecocentro, a museum perched on a cliff, explains the Patagonian marine ecosystem with great intelligence; its glass tower facing the ocean invites you to watch for blows offshore. Along the way, the seafront restaurants serve squid, shrimp and Patagonian lamb, accompanied by an Argentine Torrontés or Malbec.

Punta Tombo, the other wildlife option

From September to March, an alternative excursion heads south to Punta Tombo, home to an immense colony of Magellanic penguins — hundreds of thousands of birds that cross the paths without paying any attention to visitors. The drive takes about two and a half hours each way; the round trip takes up the day, but walking among the burrows, amid the comings and goings of adults feeding their chicks, justifies every kilometre.

Before going ashore

• Choose a single major excursion: Valdés and Punta Tombo cannot be combined in one port call.
• The Patagonian wind is constant: a windbreaker and sunglasses will make the day more pleasant.
• Argentine pesos are easy to obtain, but many shops accept cards and foreign currency; check the exchange rate applied.
• At natural sites, stay on the trails and keep your distance from wildlife — the rangers rightly see to it.

As the ship sets sail, if the season allows, one last white blow often salutes the departure in the evening light. Atlantic Patagonia has neither glaciers nor peaks: it has abundant wildlife on a human scale and a steppe that teaches patience. Those who have met a whale's gaze from a boat know they will come back.