Sailing up a river for hundreds of kilometres to dock in the heart of a metropolis: arriving in Montreal is unlike any other arrival in North America. The ship follows the banks of the St. Lawrence, passes under the bridges and moors at the Grand Quay, right in the heart of Old Montreal. No industrial zone to cross, no mandatory shuttle; you walk down the gangway and the cobbled streets begin. The French-speaking metropolis of North America, at once Latin and northern, Montreal blends eras and languages with an ease that is disconcerting at first, then wins you over for good.

The Grand Quay, a Green Gateway

The cruise terminal occupies the former Alexandra Pier, entirely redeveloped: a green roof open to strollers, wooden esplanades facing the water and an observation tower, the Port of Montréal Tower, which offers a panorama over the rooftops, the Jacques-Cartier Bridge and the islands. Before even leaving the pier, you grasp the geography of the place: the river on one side, the downtown skyline on the other, and in between, the steeples and rooftops of Old Montreal.

Old Montreal, Cobblestones and Steeples

Rue de la Commune runs along the quay; behind it, the entire historic district opens up to walkers. Notre-Dame Basilica dazzles with its blue and gold interior, a Gothic Revival masterpiece that alone justifies the lineup. Place Jacques-Cartier buzzes with street performers and terraces, City Hall watches over the port, and Bonsecours Market, topped by its silver dome, houses the shops of Quebec artisans and designers. Side streets such as Rue Saint-Paul rank among the oldest on the continent. Nearby, the Pointe-à-Callière museum, built on the very site of the city's founding in 1642, takes visitors down to the archaeological remains of the colony's earliest years.

Heading Up to the Modern City

About a twenty-minute walk from the terminal, downtown lines up skyscrapers, the large department stores of Rue Sainte-Catherine and major museums, including the Museum of Fine Arts. The curious head down into the underground city, a network of shopping galleries connected to the metro, while food lovers head for the bagel counters, smoked meat delis or public markets. The clean and simple metro puts every neighbourhood a few stops away, from the Quartier des Spectacles to the edges of the Plateau-Mont-Royal, where the spiral outdoor staircases delight photographers.

Mount Royal, the Green Lung

"The mountain," as Montrealers call it, dominates the island from its 233 metres. Mount Royal Park, designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, the landscape architect of Central Park, can be reached by taxi in a few minutes from the port. The most energetic climb up on foot via the trails and grand staircases; others enjoy the taxi ride to glimpse the stately homes of the Golden Square Mile. From the Kondiaronk Belvedere, the view takes in downtown, the river and, on clear days, the Monteregian Hills. In the fall, the park's maples blaze and turn the walk into a festival of colour.

A Port of Call to Eat Your Way Through

• Poutine, in every version from the snack bar to the gourmet restaurant.
• Hot bagels from Saint-Viateur or Fairmount, baked in wood-fired ovens in the Mile End.
• Smoked meat on rye bread, a tradition of Montreal delis.
• Quebec cheeses and maple syrup to bring home in your luggage.

Stay a While, Surely Return

Montreal often appears at the start or end of St. Lawrence itineraries, and many passengers extend their stay by a night or two: the city repays it a hundredfold, from shows to neighbourhoods to explore. As the ship pulls away from the Grand Quay and the port tower shrinks on the river, one certainty sets in: you have only just opened the door to this city. It will wait, terraces open, for everyone's return.