Aqaba Petra, Jordan

Jordan

The Gulf of Aqaba stretches out like a long corridor of deep water between two walls of desert. Heading north, the ship glides between the mountains of the Sinai on one side and those of Arabia on the other, until Jordan's only stretch of coastline comes into view: just a few kilometres of shore, a bright city set against the mountains, and a massive flag flying above the rooftops. Aqaba looks modest at first glance. Yet this is where passengers step ashore on their way to one of the most famous archaeological sites in the world.

Petra, Two Hours by Road

The Nabataean city has to be earned. Nearly 125 kilometres separate the dock from the site's entrance, a good two hours across the desert plateaus of southern Jordan. Once there, the Siq, a narrow canyon winding between towering sandstone walls, opens up without warning onto the facade of the Treasury, carved directly into the cliff about two thousand years ago. Bring sturdy shoes and plenty of water: reaching the heart of the site involves several kilometres of walking round trip. Excursions offered through the cruise line remain the safest way to make it back to the ship on time.

Wadi Rum, the South's Other Giant

About an hour away by track and paved road, the Wadi Rum desert unfolds its red cliffs, stone arches and sandy valleys, the very landscape Lawrence of Arabia once crossed during the Arab Revolt. Visitors explore it by pickup truck driven by local Bedouins, with a stop for sweet tea in the shade of a tent. Some itineraries combine Petra and Wadi Rum in the same day; it makes for a demanding schedule, but it packs two spectacular sides of Jordan into just a few hours.

Aqaba Itself, Between the Fort and the Corniche

Staying close to the port is no hardship at all. The Mamluk fort, rebuilt in the early 16th century, stands guard near the tall flagpole, and the nearby archaeological museum occupies the former residence of Sharif Hussein bin Ali. Its collection includes objects unearthed at Ayla, the first Islamic city founded outside the Arabian Peninsula, in the 7th century; its remains, street layouts and stone gateways, can be explored freely right downtown, tucked among the hotels and the marina. The corniche then invites a walk along the Red Sea, ice cream cone in hand, facing the Egyptian mountains that close off the horizon.

The Red Sea as a Backdrop

The coral reefs along the south coast rank among the best preserved in the region. A mask and snorkel are all it takes to spot butterflyfish and hard corals just a few metres from shore, in water so clear it surprises even seasoned Caribbean divers. The public beaches downtown, meanwhile, offer a glimpse of local life, especially on Fridays, the family day off in Jordan.

Aqaba Port Call at a Glance

On the way back, the gulf slowly darkens and the mountains turn shades of mauve. Those returning from Petra bring back sand in their shoes and images no photograph quite captures. The others have taken the pulse of a quiet port city, sitting at the exact crossroads of four countries. Either way, Jordan leaves the impression of a place where only a corner of the veil has been lifted.