Few North American cities have such a close bond with the sea. The capital of Nova Scotia, Halifax saw the convoys of two world wars pass through, welcomed a million immigrants and came to the aid of the Titanic's victims. This maritime memory can be read everywhere: on the docks, in the museums, even in the city's cemeteries. The call has the distinction of beginning at the very heart of this history, since ships dock at Piers 20 and 22, right next to Pier 21, the former arrival hall for immigrants.

Pier 21 and the Seaport district

Between 1928 and 1971, a million newcomers set foot in Canada in this building, now the Canadian Museum of Immigration. Personal stories, photographs, period suitcases and sound archives tell of Atlantic crossings; many Quebecers and Canadians find traces of their own families here. Right next door, the Seaport Farmers' Market brings together producers and artisans from the province, ideal for tasting local products as soon as you step off the ship.

The waterfront boardwalk

From the terminals, a wooden boardwalk of some 4 km runs along the harbour to the heart of the city. Along the way you'll see tugboats, sailboats, terraces and ice cream kiosks; the atmosphere is relaxed, and locals stroll here as much as travellers. Halfway along, the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic deserves an extended stop: its collections cover the 1917 explosion, which levelled entire neighbourhoods, as well as Halifax's role in recovering the Titanic's victims, several of whom rest in Fairview Lawn Cemetery.

The Citadel and the upper town

Atop the hill overlooking the harbour, the Citadel raises its star-shaped fortifications. Interpreters in the uniform of the 78th Highland Regiment bring the Victorian garrison back to life, and the noon gun still marks the rhythm of Haligonian days. The climb from the waterfront takes 15 to 20 minutes and is fairly steep; the view over the harbour rewards the effort. On the way back down, the Grand Parade and St. Paul's Church, built in 1750, recall the colony's origins.

Public Gardens and tasty breaks

Steps from the Citadel, the Public Gardens display their Victorian flower beds, their bandstand and their unflappable ducks: a green interlude appreciated by walkers. Seafood lovers will find happiness on the waterfront or on Argyle Street, where lobster, scallops and chowder appear on most menus.

Peggy's Cove, if time allows

About 45 km away, the Peggy's Cove lighthouse watches over granite rocks polished by the waves. The excursion takes half a day, drive included; on a clear day, the fishing hamlet nestled behind its lighthouse and its cove crowded with lobster traps form one of the best-known images of Atlantic Canada. Those who prefer to stay in town won't lose out: the Nova Scotia capital is more than enough on its own.

At the end of the day, the boardwalk naturally leads back to the piers. The bells of the buoys, the horns of the ferries and the cries of the gulls accompany your last steps. Halifax doesn't just tell the story of the sea: it still lives it, and travellers leave with the feeling of having shared, for a few hours, this long conversation between a city and its ocean.