A country was born in a parlour in this city. In September 1864, delegates from the British colonies of North America gathered in Charlottetown to discuss a possible union; three years later, Canada existed. Prince Edward Island cultivates its title of Birthplace of Confederation with a mix of pride and island self-deprecation, and the port call has the simplicity of the very best: the terminal is right in the historic waterfront district, and almost everything can be done on foot in less than fifteen minutes.

Great George Street, the finest way into town

From the harbour, Great George Street climbs in a straight line to Province House, exactly as in 1864 when the delegates came ashore at the same spot. The street lines up Georgian homes, lacquered doors and lanterns all the way to the twin spires of St. Dunstan's Basilica, one of the few churches of its rank in the Maritimes. At the top, Province House, home of the famous conference and still the provincial legislature, can be visited depending on the restoration work under way; the neighbouring interpretation centre recounts the negotiations, balls and banquets that gave birth to a country.

Victoria Row and the arts of Confederation

Right next door, the imposing Confederation Centre of the Arts houses art galleries and performance halls. Every summer since 1965, it has staged the musical Anne of Green Gables, the longest-running annual musical production in Canada, based on Lucy Maud Montgomery's novel that made the island known around the world. Behind the centre, Victoria Row closes its cobbled street to traffic: terraces, musicians and craft galleries make it the place to be on summer afternoons.

Peake's Wharf and the waterfront boardwalk

Heading back down to the water, the colourful shingled shops of Peake's Wharf occupy the old merchant wharves. Here you can taste a local institution: COWS ice cream, born on the island and regularly ranked among the best in the world. The waterfront trail then heads to Victoria Park, where 19th-century cannons and lawns overlook the Northumberland Strait. The full loop, harbour included, is just over three kilometres without a single dull moment.

Anne, red earth and the open sea

Many passengers devote their day to the excursion to Cavendish, on the north shore, about forty minutes away by road. Green Gables Heritage Place preserves the green-gabled farmhouse that inspired Montgomery, surrounded by the trails where the writer let her imagination wander. The journey is worth as much as the destination: rolling fields, red barns, sandstone cliffs and that deep russet earth that colours even the island's roads. Seafood lovers might prefer an outing to taste Malpeque oysters, the island's other claim to fame.

Port call pointers

• Downtown terminal: Province House, Victoria Row and Peake's Wharf less than 15 minutes away on foot.
• Green Gables (Cavendish): about 40 minutes by road; book the excursion early, as it fills up fast.
• Victoria Park: a flat walk of about 2 km round trip from the harbour.
• Lobster and oysters are enjoyed everywhere, from the snack bar to the fine dining table.

There is a gentleness in Charlottetown that owes nothing to marketing: that of a pocket-sized capital where national history was played out between neighbours, and where people still talk to you like a neighbour. As the lines are cast off, you understand that Anne Shirley, the most beloved red-haired orphan in literature, could not have been born anywhere but on this island.