Sorrento was built where the land stops abruptly. Perched on its cliffs of volcanic tuff, the small Campanian town watches over the Bay of Naples, Vesuvius on the horizon and the comings and goings of boats to Capri. The scent of lemons rises from the terraced orchards, the lanes buzz from morning on, and the whole makes up one of the most sought-after port calls in the Mediterranean. The Renaissance poet Torquato Tasso was born here, and the main square now bears his name.

From the sea to the upper town

Ships anchor in the bay and tenders drop passengers at Marina Piccola, the small port at the foot of the cliffs. From there, two options: climb the ramp and its 200 or so steps to the upper town, about twenty minutes of effort, or take the minibuses and shuttles that climb up to Piazza Tasso. This central square, Sorrento's beating heart, sets the tone with its busy cafés, horse-drawn carriages and its balcony open to the void, from which you look straight down on the small port.

The lanes and the art of wood

From Piazza Tasso, Via San Cesareo plunges into the maze of the historic centre. The shops overflow with ceramics, handmade sandals and lemons in every form. Sorrento also cultivates a more discreet craft: marquetry. Since the 19th century, its cabinetmakers have assembled precious woods into patterns of astonishing precision, and several workshops in the centre still show the work in progress. A few steps farther, the cloister of San Francesco offers a calm interlude beneath its 14th-century arcades, between bougainvillea and weathered stone. In the other direction, a sloping lane leads down to Marina Grande, the old fishing hamlet that has stayed away from the bustle: boats pulled up on shore, laundry at the windows and restaurants right on the water make up a scene that many visitors miss, for lack of walking fifteen more minutes.

Lemons in every form

It's impossible to wander the lanes without coming across the town's emblematic citrus. The peninsula's lemons, huge and fragrant, grow beneath pergolas that protect the orchards from the sea wind. A few streets away, the historic garden I Giardini di Cataldo opens its paths to visitors: you stroll beneath the trellises before tasting the house limoncello, served ice-cold in small glasses. Granitas, pastries and soaps complete the range, and free tastings abound along the shopping lanes.

A base for the great excursions

Its location makes it a convenient starting point: ferries to Capri leave directly from the landing, while Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast are reached by road or by regional train. These outings do, however, require tight time management, between heavy traffic and seasonal crowds. Many passengers prefer to devote the whole day to the town itself: between the viewpoints, gardens, churches and terraces, the town rewards those who slow down.

Practical pointers

• Tender landing at Marina Piccola; climb to the centre on foot or by shuttle.
• Piazza Tasso and the historic centre entirely accessible on foot.
• Ferries to Capri depart from the quay; allow a safety margin for the return.
• Currency: euro. Specialties: limoncello, marquetry, gnocchi alla sorrentina.

When it's time to head back, many walk down to the marina by the ramp, this time for the view: the golden cliffs, the rows of bathing huts, Vesuvius in the haze. Sorrento then recedes as it appeared, suspended between sky and sea, with that scent of lemon following travellers all the way onto the ship's deck.