Goteborg Gothenburg, Sweden

Sweden

Sweden's second city, Gothenburg has the character of cities built facing the open sea: open, industrious, unpretentious. Founded in 1621 by King Gustavus II Adolphus, designed by Dutch engineers who dug canals through it, it long lived by its shipyards and trade with the Americas. The port's cranes recall this history; the renovated waterfront quarters show what it has become.

Arriving by the Göta River

Medium-sized ships sail up the estuary to Stigbergskajen, a historic quay from which emigrants once departed for North America. From there, the lively quarters of Majorna, Linné and Haga are reached on foot. The largest floating buildings stop at Arendal, in the outer harbour, some 10 kilometres from the centre; shuttles then conduct passengers toward the city-centre docks.

Stigbergskajen preserves the memory of an exodus: between the mid-19th century and the 1920s, more than a million Swedes left their country, most embarking here itself for North America. The Amerikaskjulet, the emigrants' old shed, still borders the quay, and it takes little imagination to hear the farewells exchanged there.

Haga, the Wooden-House Quarter

Natural first stop: Haga, Gothenburg's oldest suburb. Its cobbled streets line preserved wooden houses, secondhand shops, bookstores and cafés renowned for their giant cinnamon buns, the famous hagabullar, nearly as wide as a plate. Antique shops merit exploring: you often leave with a maritime treasure found for a few crowns. A pause is warranted: fika, this Swedish coffee ritual accompanied by a sweet, is practiced here with proper form.

Canals, Avenues and Museums

From there, minutes' walk leads to the city-centre canals, remnants of the original Dutch plan, which flat-bottomed boats traverse in season. Guides aboard willingly recount why passengers must sometimes lower their heads: some bridges skim the water so close the manoeuvre amuses the entire boat. Further east opens Kungsportsavenyn, the great avenue locals simply call Avenyn. It climbs gently toward Götaplatsen, the arts square dominated by Poseidon's fountain and the Fine Arts Museum, rich in Nordic painting. Seafood lovers will instead veer toward the fish market, whose architecture resembles a church where shrimp and herring are tasted on the go.

Green Lungs

Gothenburg provides breathing space everywhere. The Society's Horticultural Garden, near the central station, unfolds greenhouses and rose gardens steps from urban bustle. And for those with a longer stop, the southern archipelago, closed to cars, is reached by tram then ferry: another world of smooth rocks, fishing cabins and sailboats. The blue trams, local emblems, serve the entire agglomeration on one of Scandinavia's most extensive networks.

Tips for the Day

• Frequent trams; tickets available by app or at dispensers.
• Haga and Linné: walking distance from Stigbergskajen.
• Allow half a day to combine wooden quarter, canals and Avenyn.
• Currency: Swedish crown; cards accepted almost everywhere.

As evening falls and the ship descends the estuary between lighthouses and islets, the city recedes without haste, true to itself. You leave Gothenburg with the taste of a warm bun still on your lips, the memory of a quiet canal and that rare feeling: of a great city that has kept the simplicity of a fishing port.