Sailing under the Golden Gate at dawn ranks among the great arrivals in the world of cruising. Fog clings to the orange cables, the city's hills emerge in tiers between the downtown towers, and the ship moors at the Pier 27 terminal on the Embarcadero, a few minutes' walk from San Francisco's best-known neighbourhoods. No shuttle is needed: the city begins at the foot of the gangway.

The Embarcadero, backbone of the port call

This long waterfront boulevard can be explored on foot or aboard the vintage streetcars of the F line, with colourful bodies from around the world. To the south, it leads to the Ferry Building, a former ferry terminal turned gourmet market: cheesemakers, bakers, coffee roasters and local producers sit side by side beneath the great clock, and local oysters are enjoyed standing up, facing the docks. To the north, it takes you in about twenty minutes to the tourist piers, past picture windows reflecting the silhouette of the bridge.

Pier 39 and Fisherman's Wharf

You can't miss the racket at Pier 39: dozens of sea lions have been jostling for the floating docks there since 1989, under the gaze of onlookers. All around, Fisherman's Wharf carries on its maritime tradition with crab stands and clam chowder served in sourdough bread bowls, a local institution you have to try at least once. At the Hyde Street Pier, the tall ships of the national maritime park can be visited, witnesses to the era when the Gold Rush filled the bay with masts. A little higher up, the former Ghirardelli Square chocolate factory has traded its machines for shops and terraces, but the hot chocolate is still made according to house tradition.

Alcatraz, the island across the way

Offshore floats the pale silhouette of Alcatraz. Ferries leave from the Embarcadero for the former federal penitentiary, where the audio guide, rich with the voices of former inmates and guards, turns the visit into a gripping story. One precaution is essential: tickets sell out weeks in advance, so you need to book early or go through the ship's excursions to have any hope of getting there the same day.

Cables, hills and viewpoints

No visit here is complete without a cable car ride. The wooden cars creak their way up the slopes, held by their century-old cable, and every hilltop recomposes the bay from a different angle. Walkers will prefer to climb to Coit Tower, on Telegraph Hill, whose white column overlooks the terminal: the 1930s murals at its base and the circular panorama at the top reward the effort of climbing the flower-lined stairways.

Planning your day

The main challenge of this port call is the sheer abundance of choice. A tried-and-true formula is to devote the morning to the piers and the historic ships, then take in the bay from Coit Tower, before heading down to the Ferry Building for a lunch of local products and a round trip by cable car. The financial district and Union Square, about two and a half kilometres from the terminal, are reachable by streetcar for shopping enthusiasts. Whatever you choose, bring a warm layer: the bay wind surprises even in midsummer, a local signature just like the fog.

Leaving by the bay

At departure, the ship passes beneath the deck of the Golden Gate again as the city turns on its first lights. The hills recede, the foghorn answers the Pacific wind, and everyone understands why so many songs talk about leaving your heart here. San Francisco doesn't end: it promises.